Buyer's guide

Toyota Century

The Toyota Century is Toyota's flagship chauffeur limousine — a JDM-only car that demands respect in Japan and never officially left it. Toyota began producing the Century in 1967 to commemorate the 100th birthday of company founder Sakichi Toyoda; the name itself records that centenary. From the start it sat above the Crown as a car for high-ranking government officials, Imperial Household members, corporate chairmen, and (per its folk reputation) the senior tier of the Japanese underworld. Three generations span nearly sixty years: the first gen (G20/G30/G40, 1967–1997) carried V8s of 3.0L, 3.4L, and 4.0L across thirty years of minimal restyling; the second gen (G50, 1997–2017) introduced the 5.0L 1GZ-FE V12 — the only mass-produced V12 in any Japanese passenger car — and ran for another twenty; the third gen (G60, 2018–present) drops the V12 for a 5.0L 2UR-FSE V8 hybrid making around 425 hp. Each generation lasted close to twenty years because the brief never changed: hand-painted seven-coat finish, woollen seat fabric as standard, rear-cabin priority, and styling so conservative that the 2018 G60 still resembles the 1967 G20. The Century has only ever been sold in Japan, with the narrow exception of a small number of ambassadorial and experimental units. Outside Japan it reaches collectors strictly under the 25-year import rule.

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The 1GZ-FE — Japan's only mass-produced V12

The G50 generation, launched in 1997, introduced the 1GZ-FE: a 5.0-litre DOHC 48-valve V12 producing 276 hp at the JDM gentleman's-agreement cap and approximately 481 N·m of torque. It remains the only V12 ever fitted to a mass-produced Japanese passenger car. A CNG-fuelled export variant, the 1GZ-FNE, was offered for the small number of ambassadorial cars sent overseas — and notably, tuner Smokey Nagata transplanted a 1GZ-FE into a Supra build that he drove past 220 mph. In the Century itself the engine does the opposite job: it carries 4,500–6,500 lb of car with enough headroom that the driver never feels the engine working. Owners typically report around 11 mpg from the V12 versus around 19 mpg from the earlier V8s — a figure the original target market did not consider relevant. Outside Japan, 1GZ-FE-specific parts and diagnostics rely on Japanese supply chains; this is the single largest ownership-cost variable on a G50.

The rear cabin — why you sit in the back

The Century is engineered for the passenger, not the driver. Standard upholstery is wool — not leather — because Toyota's engineers (and the original buyers) consider wool more comfortable over long sittings, more dignified, and more durable; leather was a no-cost option that most original owners declined. The rear bench reclines, heats, and massages. There is a separate rear-cabin stereo (the G50 included a cassette recorder with Century-branded earphones for reviewing dictated notes), powered window blinds, separate ashtrays in each door, and on G60 a 20-inch LCD with 20-speaker Bose audio that can be split 50/50 or muted by row. The driver's controls extend the chauffeur role: front-passenger seat adjustment from the driver's side (so a chauffeur can clear space for the principal in the back), all-window control, lit instrument cluster against the JDM-norm analog gauges. The G60 reverted to a floor-mounted shifter — a deliberate callback to the first-gen — to make long shifts more comfortable for a working chauffeur.

Quick read

Key takeaways

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Constants

Common across all Century generations

Chassis history

Generation timeline

The Century ran three generations from 1967 until now, and each one stayed in production for roughly twenty years. The G20 through G40 covers the first thirty years on a V8. The G50 is the V12 car most people think of. The G60 is the current hybrid V8 and it still looks like a 1967 Century on purpose.

VG20–VG45

First generation — VG20 through VG45 chassis codes (1967–1997)

GZG50

Second generation — GZG50 (1GZ-FE V12; 1997–2017)

Guide coming soon

Buyer's call

Should you buy a Toyota Century?

The Century is a car where you have to want what it actually is. Toyota built it for the back seat, not the driver's seat, and that choice shapes every trade-off below. If you're buying a Century to drive yourself around, you're buying the wrong car.

Why you'll love it

  • Unmatched ride isolation Built for silence: thick insulation, soft tuning, and low NVH calibration.
  • Flagship build quality Hand-finished details, durable materials, and conservative engineering for longevity.
  • Timeless, discreet presence Understated styling and formal proportions; prestige without flash.
  • Strong JDM cultural cachet Used by executives and officials; high desirability among collectors.
  • VG40 parts & serviceability More shared Toyota-era components; easier ownership than many exotics.
  • V12 smoothness (GZG50) 1GZ-FE delivers turbine-like refinement; unique among Japanese sedans.
  • Comfort-focused rear cabin Rear amenities, soft-close features, and limo-like seating priorities.

Why you might not

  • Not performance-oriented Heavy, comfort-tuned chassis; slow steering and soft damping vs sport sedans.
  • V12 ownership costs 1GZ-FE parts, sensors, and labor can be expensive; fewer specialists outside Japan.
  • Aging electronics/trim Older navigation, displays, and climate modules can be dated or hard to source.
  • Fuel economy & running costs Large displacement and weight mean high fuel use; tires/brakes are not cheap.
  • Rust and storage issues Japan coastal storage can mean underbody corrosion; inspect seams and subframes.
  • Import compliance complexity 25-year rule timing, paperwork, and parts labeling can complicate US ownership.
  • Limited aftermarket support Few performance or restoration vendors vs common JDM icons; OEM is key.
Who should not buy this
  • Anyone needing cheap, fast parts availability
  • People without a trusted JDM-capable shop
  • Owners who can't tolerate downtime for parts
  • Drivers wanting modern infotainment/CarPlay
  • Those expecting Lexus-level dealer support
  • Anyone on a tight fuel budget (especially V12)
  • People who won't proactively replace aged rubber
  • Buyers who can't store it indoors (rust risk)
  • Salt-belt daily drivers without underbody care
  • Anyone who hates diagnosing old electronics
  • People needing strong A/C in extreme heat ASAP
  • Drivers who want sporty handling or sharp brakes
  • Short-trip only users; it hates constant cold runs
  • Anyone who won't do preventive cooling service
  • Buyers expecting easy emissions compliance everywhere
  • People who need LHD or easy drive-thru usability
  • Anyone who can't budget $3k-8k catch-up service
  • Those who can't accept Japan-only nav/TV features
  • People who need a lightweight city car
  • Owners who won't learn import paperwork/insurance

Reliability

Common issues & solutions

The Century is mechanically overbuilt, but the V12 and the air suspension and the JDM-only electronics all age in ways that get expensive outside Japan. Most of the trouble comes from parts supply and labor cost, not the engineering itself. A documented car with a recent timing belt service on the V12 is worth a lot more than a cheap one without paperwork.

Issue Cause Solution Est. cost
Air suspension leaks/sag Aged air strut bags, cracked lines, O-rings Replace struts/lines; rebuild valves; calibrate $2000-7000
Air compressor overrun/fail System leaks make compressor run hot and wear Fix leaks first; replace compressor + dryer $800-2500
Height sensor faults Seized linkages, corroded sensor tracks Free/replace sensors; align and recalibrate $300-1200
V12 timing belt overdue Deferred service; unknown history on imports Belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, seals $1500-3500
Cooling system brittle plastics Age heat-cycles crack radiator tanks/fittings Radiator, hoses, thermostat, cap; flush $600-1800
Heater control valve leak Aged diaphragm/seals; corrosion at fittings Replace valve and hoses; bleed system $300-900
Heater core seep/odor Internal corrosion; neglected coolant changes Replace core; flush; new coolant and hoses $900-2500
Valve cover gasket leaks Hardened gaskets; crankcase pressure/PCV clog Gaskets + grommets; service PCV/breathers $400-1200
Front cover/cam seal leaks Aged seals; belt service skipped too long Reseal during timing belt service $600-1800
Fuel hose/line seep Old rubber, ethanol exposure, clamp fatigue Replace all soft lines; inspect hard lines $300-1200
Injector leakage/misfire Aged injector seals or varnish from storage Ultrasonic clean or replace; new seals $500-2500
Ignition coil/plug issues Age, oil in plug wells, long service intervals Plugs + coils as needed; fix oil leaks first $400-1800
Alternator weak/charging Age, heat, high electrical load at idle Replace alternator; check grounds and battery $400-1200
Parasitic battery drain Aging modules, trunk moisture, stuck relays Draw test; repair water leak; replace module/relay $200-1500
Soft-close door failure Worn pull-in motor/gears; latch misadjustment Adjust latch; rebuild/replace pull-in unit $400-2000
Window regulator slow/fail Dry tracks, worn motor/regulator cables Clean/lube tracks; replace regulator/motor $250-900
Climate control blend door Servo motor failure or cracked door linkage Replace servo; repair linkage; recalibrate $300-1500
A/C leak or weak cooling Old O-rings, condenser corrosion, compressor wear Leak test; replace failed parts; evac/recharge $500-2500
Rear A/C blower failure Worn blower motor or resistor pack Replace blower/resistor; clean ducts $300-1200
Steering rack leak Aged seals; contaminated fluid; torn boots Rebuild/replace rack; flush PS system $900-2500
PS pump whine/leak Worn pump bearings/seals; low fluid from leaks Fix leaks; replace pump; flush fluid $400-1400
Control arm bushing wear Age and weight; rubber cracks and separates Replace arms/bushings; alignment afterward $600-2500
Brake caliper slide seize Corrosion, old grease, infrequent use Service slides; rebuild/replace calipers $300-1200
Brake hard line corrosion Road salt; undercoat traps moisture Replace lines; inspect ABS unit fittings $600-2500
Wheel bearing noise Age, water intrusion, heavy curb impacts Replace hub/bearing assemblies $300-1200
Transmission shift flare Old ATF, solenoid wear, valve body varnish Service ATF; solenoids/valve body as needed $300-2500
Transmission mount collapse Rubber deterioration; heavy drivetrain Replace mounts; inspect driveshaft angles $250-900
Driveshaft center bearing Rubber carrier cracks; age and heat Replace center bearing/support; balance shaft $400-1200
Exhaust rot/leaks Condensation + salt; thin OEM sections Replace sections; use stainless where possible $600-3000
Catalyst rattle/efficiency Substrate breakup from age/misfire Fix misfire; replace cats; new O2 sensors $800-4000
O2 sensor aging Heat cycles; slow response causes poor trims Replace upstream sensors; clear trims $250-900
Trunk water intrusion Tail lamp seals, trunk gasket, body seam cracks Reseal lamps/seams; replace gasket; dry modules $150-1200
Sunroof drain overflow Clogged drains; cracked drain tubes Clear/replace drains; dry interior thoroughly $150-900
Wood trim cracking/fade UV exposure, heat, age; lacquer delamination Refinish wood; source used pieces carefully $400-3000
Seat control switch failure Worn contacts; spilled drinks; oxidation Clean/repair switch; replace if needed $150-800
Aging rubber everywhere Storage and age harden seals and bushings Budget full rubber refresh over first 12 months $800-5000
Parts availability delays Century-specific parts; Japan-only supply chain Use JDM suppliers; buy spares; plan downtime $0-2000

Market

Differences between JDM & USDM

The Toyota Century was never sold outside Japan as a regular production model. There is no factory USDM, EUDM, or AUDM equivalent — no badge-engineered Lexus or Toyota export twin, unlike the Celsior/LS or Aristo/GS. The only Centuries that legally left Japan in period were a small number of ambassadorial cars (often fitted with the CNG-fuelled 1GZ-FNE V12 in place of the JDM-market 1GZ-FE) and experimental units sent for evaluation in markets including the United States. Every Century in private foreign hands today reached its market under the relevant country's classic-vehicle import rules — in the US, the 25-year FMVSS exemption (so 1997 G50s became legal in 2022, 1998s in 2023, and so on; the G60 generation does not yet have any examples eligible). RHD is the only factory configuration; LHD Centuries are conversions or one-off experimental cars. Cabin controls, navigation displays, and signal-TV tuners are labelled in Japanese and operate on the Japanese broadcast standard — JDM nav and TV head units do not function in North America without replacement. For the same reasons, the Imperial Household's bespoke Century Royal (G51) — four hand-built units, 2006–2008, used as Japan's official state car — was never offered for export at any price.

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Specs

Technical specifications

Every Century is rear-wheel drive with a V8 or V12 sitting up front. The first generation ran 3.0, 3.4, and 4.0 liter V8s across thirty years. The G50 got the 5.0 liter 1GZ-FE V12, which is the only mass-produced V12 ever fitted to a Japanese passenger car. The G60 went to a 5.0 liter 2UR-FSE V8 hybrid making around 425 hp.

Engine options

Chassis Engine Displacement Power Boost Notes
VG20 (G20 Century) 3V 3.0L estimated N/A Exact PS/Nm varies by year; data incomplete
VG30 (G30 Century) 4V 3.4L estimated N/A Exact PS/Nm varies by year; data incomplete
VG40 (G40 Century) 5V 4.0L estimated N/A Exact PS/Nm varies by year; data incomplete
G50 1GZ-FE 5.0L 276hp @ 5200rpm N/A JDM cap; V12, DOHC 48V
G50 1GZ-FE 5.0L estimated N/A Torque commonly cited ~481Nm; rpm unverified
G60 2UR-FSE + Hybrid 5.0L estimated N/A System output commonly cited ~425hp; rpm varies
U70 (Century SUV) V35A-FTS PHEV 3.5L estimated Turbo PHEV system output varies; exact rpm unverified

Transmission options

Type Ratios Availability Notes
3-speed Automatic estimated 1st Gen (early) Early Century auto; exact ratios unverified
4-speed Automatic estimated 1st Gen (later) Later 1st gen auto; exact ratios unverified
4-speed Automatic (ECT) estimated G50 (1GZ-FE) Aisin 4AT; ratios not confirmed here
eCVT (Hybrid Transaxle) eCVT G60 (Hybrid) THS II power-split; no fixed gear ratios
eCVT (PHEV Transaxle) eCVT U70 (SUV PHEV) PHEV power-split; AWD via e-axle

Lineup

Variants & trims

The Century has almost no trim ladder. Toyota built it as one car with options layered on top, not as a base model and a top model. The differences you'll see are wheelbase, rear seat package, and on the G50 whether you got the V12 or one of the rare ambassadorial CNG cars. Special-order Imperial Household specs exist but you won't be buying one of those.

Generation Trim Engine Key features
1st Gen (G20/G30/G40; VG20/VG30/VG40) Century (Standard Wheelbase) 3.0L 3V (VG20), 3.4L 4V (VG30), 4.0L 5V (VG40) Wool cloth, rear amenities, chauffeur focus
1st Gen (G20/G30/G40; VG20/VG30/VG40) Century (Long Wheelbase) 3.0L 3V (VG20), 3.4L 4V (VG30), 4.0L 5V (VG40) Extended rear legroom, partition option
1st Gen (G20/G30/G40; VG20/VG30/VG40) Century (E-type/High Grade) 4.0L 5V (VG40) Upgraded rear trim, higher equipment level
1st Gen (G20/G30/G40; VG20/VG30/VG40) Century (Special Order/Coachbuilt) 4.0L 5V (VG40) Factory special-order interior/amenity configs
2nd Gen (G50; 1997-2017) Century (Standard) 5.0L 1GZ-FE V12 Wool cloth, air suspension, rear controls
2nd Gen (G50; 1997-2017) Century (Leather Package) 5.0L 1GZ-FE V12 Leather upholstery, upgraded rear comfort
2nd Gen (G50; 1997-2017) Century (Dual EMV/Rear Seat Package) 5.0L 1GZ-FE V12 Rear entertainment, enhanced rear controls
2nd Gen (G50; 1997-2017) Century (Special Order/Imperial Household spec) 5.0L 1GZ-FE V12 Special build, bespoke interior/amenities
3rd Gen (G60; 2018-present) Century 5.0L 2UR-FSE + Hybrid (THS II) Hybrid, air suspension, rear executive seats
3rd Gen (G60; 2018-present) Century (Rear Executive Package) 5.0L 2UR-FSE + Hybrid (THS II) Power ottoman, rear massage, rear controls
3rd Gen (G60; 2018-present) Century (Special Order) 5.0L 2UR-FSE + Hybrid (THS II) Bespoke trim, special colors/materials
Century SUV (U70; 2023-present) Century SUV 3.5L V35A-FTS Plug-in Hybrid (PHEV) PHEV, AWD, rear executive lounge focus
Century SUV (U70; 2023-present) Century SUV (Special Order) 3.5L V35A-FTS Plug-in Hybrid (PHEV) Bespoke interior, special colors, VIP options

Pricing

Average prices & original MSRP

A V8 first-generation Century starts around $10,000 if you can find one. A clean G50 V12 typically runs $25,000 to $40,000, and low km collector cars push well past that. The G60 is too new for the 25-year rule and only reaches foreign buyers through grey channels. Condition and provenance move the price more than mileage does on a Century.

Today's market range: $12,000 to $180,000 (median ~$42,000). Source: JDMBuySell / USS Auction.

Century prices are firm-to-rising: VG40 exports lift clean cars, while GZG50 V12s command collector premiums. Best-condition, low-km, unmodified examples outperform; rough/high-km cars lag. Expect gradual gains as more years clear 25-year import eligibility.

Inspect

Pre-purchase inspection checklist

Walk this list before you commit, not after. The Critical items mean walking away if the seller can't back them up with paperwork. The V12 timing belt and the air suspension are the two big-ticket items that decide whether a cheap Century stays cheap. Underbody rust on a Japan-stored car is the other one that catches people out.

Critical priority

  • Import/Title Verify legal import, VIN match, clean title
  • Model/Engine ID Confirm GZG50 V12 or VG40 V8; ECU match
  • Rust: Underbody Inspect seams, jacking points, subframes
  • Rust: Rockers Check rocker pinch welds for swelling/holes
  • Air Suspension Overnight sag test; listen for compressor run
  • Air Struts Check strut bags for cracks, oil seep, age
  • Brake Lines Inspect hard lines for rust; flex hoses cracks
  • V12 Timing Belt Confirm belt, idlers, water pump replaced
  • Cooling System Pressure test; check radiator tanks, hoses
  • Fuel System Smell for fuel; check lines, filter, pump noise
  • Test Drive: Temp Watch coolant temp stable; fans cycle normally

High priority

  • Service Records Check timing belt history (V12) and fluids
  • Odometer Proof Verify km history via auction sheet/records
  • Rust: Rear arches Look inside lip; bubbling under paint/liner
  • Rust: Trunk well Lift carpet; check spare well and seams
  • Rust: Cowl/Drain Check cowl drains; water marks at firewall
  • Accident Repair Check core support, apron welds, overspray
  • Height Sensors Check linkages not seized; ride height even
  • Power Steering Check pump/lines for leaks; whine at lock
  • Steering Rack Inspect rack boots for fluid; play on center
  • Front Control Arms Check bushings/ball joints; clunks over bumps
  • Brakes Check caliper slide seizure; pulsation/ABS
  • Engine Cold Start Listen for chain/belt noise; misfire on start
  • Heater Control Valve Check for coolant smell under dash/valve leak
  • Oil Leaks Inspect cam seals, front cover, rear main area
  • Valve Cover Leaks Check for oil in plug wells; burning smell
  • Fuel Tank Inspect tank straps and filler neck for rust
  • Transmission Check ATF color; flare/harsh shifts hot
  • Trans Cooler Lines Inspect for seep/rust at crimps and fittings
  • Exhaust Check Y-pipe/mufflers for rust; rattles
  • Battery/Charging Load test; alternator output; parasitic draw
  • ECU/Modules Scan for codes; check water intrusion signs
  • Climate Control Test all modes; blend doors; A/C cold at idle
  • A/C System Check compressor noise; leaks at condenser
  • Soft-Close Doors Verify pull-in works; listen for motor strain
  • Locks/Key Confirm master key, remote, immobilizer works
  • Interior Water Leaks Check damp carpets; musty smell; sunroof drains
  • Trunk Electronics Check for water; corrosion on connectors/modules
  • Test Drive: Ride Check float/bounce; air suspension leveling
  • Emissions/Compliance Check local inspection rules; OBD readiness

Medium priority

  • Panel Alignment Uneven gaps/door close feel; hinge sag
  • Glass/Seals Check windshield trim, door seals for leaks
  • Rear Suspension Check toe links/bushings; uneven tire wear
  • Tires/Wheels Check date codes, flat spots, bent wheels
  • PCV/Breather Check PCV clog; crankcase pressure at idle
  • Driveshaft Check center bearing and U-joints for play
  • Differential Check leaks; whine on decel; fluid condition
  • Catalysts Check for rattling cats; O2 sensor codes
  • Grounds Check chassis grounds; weird electrical faults
  • Instrument Cluster Check backlight, warning lamps, dead pixels
  • Rear A/C Verify rear vents cold; rear blower speeds
  • Seat Motors Test all seat functions; memory and recline
  • Rear Seat Features Test ottoman, massage, controls (if equipped)
  • Power Windows Check slow windows; regulator noise; auto-down
  • Audio/Navi Test amp, speakers; screen; CD changer function
  • Sunroof Test tilt/slide; check wind noise and drain flow
  • Test Drive: NVH Listen for wheel bearings, driveline vibration

Low priority

  • Mirrors Test fold/adjust/heat; check for wobble
  • Antenna Power antenna up/down; mast not bent
  • Jack/Tools Confirm OEM jack, tools, spare; trunk trim intact

Cross-shop

Comparable alternatives

If the Century doesn't make sense, the closest JDM substitute is the Nissan President. It's the only other car built for the same buyer. The Celsior is what you buy if you want the comfort and the V8 without the chauffeur theatre. The W140 S-Class is the European version of the same idea with global parts support.

Nissan President JHG50

Closest JDM chauffeur rival; V8 RWD luxury

Nissan Cima Y33

VIP sedan vibe; easier parts; strong value

Toyota Celsior UCF20

LS400 JDM; reliable V8; easier daily use

Mercedes S-Class W140

Same era bank-vault luxury; global support

Infiniti Q45 G50

Japanese V8 flagship with sharper dynamics

Compare

How it compares

Among JDM flagship sedans, the Century is the most isolated and the most formal. The President is similar in mission but rarer and harder to find parts for. The Celsior is easier to live with but doesn't carry the same presence. The table below leans toward what the Century actually does well, which is silence, ride quality, and rear seat comfort.

Feature Toyota Century Nissan President JHG50 Honda Legend KA9
Core mission Chauffeur luxury, NVH Sport-luxury flagship Executive luxury, tech
Engine layout V8/V12/V8 hybrid V8 V6
Top-tier engine 5.0L 1GZ-FE V12 4.5L/4.1L VH V8 3.5L C35A V6
Drivetrain RWD (most) RWD FWD
Ride character Soft, isolated Softer but less isolated Tauter, more road feel
Cabin noise Class-leading quiet Very quiet Quiet, less limo-like
Rear-seat focus High (chauffeur) High Medium
Prestige in Japan Top-tier domestic icon High, less iconic High, more modern image
Collectibility High (V12/rare specs) Moderate Moderate to low
Parts availability Good VG40; V12 mixed Mixed Fair
Typical buyer cross-shop JDM flagship collectors VIP sedan fans Euro luxury importers
Power output V12 ~276 hp (JDM era) VH45DE ~278 hp M119 V8 315-322 hp
Driving feel Floaty, serene More responsive Heavy, bank-vault

Gallery

Editorial

The buyer's read

If you're buying a Century, start by being honest about why you want one. This is a car that makes sense from the back seat, not the driver's seat, and the people who end up regretting their Century are usually the ones who bought it as a driver's car. The Celsior or a Lexus LS does that job better for less money.

The safest first Century is a documented G50 V12 with the timing belt already done and the air suspension either healthy or already converted to coils. Budget around $30,000 to $40,000 for a clean one and another $5,000 to $8,000 in the first year for catch-up service. The 1GZ-FE V12 itself is fine. It's the parts around it that cost money, especially when you're sourcing from Japan with shipping and lead times.

The VG40 V8 first-generation cars are the cheap way in, but cheap is relative. A $12,000 VG40 with no service records is a parts hunt waiting to happen. Wood trim cracks, soft-close motors fail, the heater control valve leaks, and the underbody on a Japan-stored car can hide rust that's expensive to fix properly. If you're going VG40, find one with a real service history and pay the premium. It's still cheaper than fixing a neglected G50.

The one Century almost nobody outside Japan should buy is a rough G50 V12 from a coastal storage car. The V12 alone is fine, but the air suspension, the JDM nav and TV head unit, the climate LCD, the soft-close door modules, and the rear seat controls all age together. When they start failing in sequence, the repair bill outruns the car's value fast. A clean, documented G50 is a different conversation. That's the one you want.

The G60 hybrid is mostly not available to foreign buyers because the 25-year rule doesn't apply yet. If you're seeing one for sale outside Japan today, ask hard questions about how it got there.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Which Toyota Century is the best buy today?
Most buyers target VG40 (1997-2017) for value and support. GZG50 V12 is best for collectibility.
Is the V12 Century reliable?
Generally yes if maintained, but 1GZ-FE parts and diagnostics can be costly. Buy the best history you can.
What should I inspect before buying?
Check rust, air/ride components, cooling, electrical accessories, and verify service records and mileage consistency.
Are parts hard to get outside Japan?
VG40 wear items are manageable; trim/electronics can be tough. V12-specific parts may require Japan sourcing.
How does it compare to a Lexus LS/Celsior?
Century is more chauffeur-focused and traditional. LS/Celsior is more modern and easier to daily-drive.
Will values keep rising?
Clean, original cars trend upward with export demand. Expect strongest gains for low-km V12 and top-condition VG40.
When is it US-legal to import?
Under the 25-year rule, eligibility depends on build year. Example: 1997 cars in 2022, 1998 in 2023, etc.
What options matter most for resale?
Desirable: low km, original paint, rear comfort options, documented care, and correct period wheels/trim.

Citations

Sources & references

  1. Toyota Century — encyclopedic overview — WikipediaVerified
  2. Toyota Century — Japanese encyclopedic overview — Wikipedia (Japanese)Verified
  3. Toyota GZ engine family (1GZ-FE / 1GZ-FNE V12) — WikipediaVerified
  4. Toyota Century — model gallery and heritage — Toyota Motor CorporationVerified
  5. Century vehicle heritage — Toyota global showroom — Toyota Motor CorporationVerified
  6. Toyota Century Royal — G51 state car (2006–2008) — WikipediaVerified
  7. 1997 Toyota Century V12 — owner review — Autocar NZVerified
  8. Rolling like a Very Important Person — Century field report — Stance Is EverythingVerified
  9. Andrew's Japanese Cars — Toyota Century reference — Andrew's Japanese CarsVerified
  10. Lexus LS 400 — sibling-platform context for the G50 era — WikipediaVerified

Sources last verified: