Buyer's guide

Mazda Autozam AZ-1

The Mazda Autozam AZ-1 (chassis code PG6SA) was a kei-class sports coupe launched in October 1992 and produced through October 1995. It is the only mid-engine, rear-wheel-drive kei car ever sold with factory gullwing doors over a composite plastic body. Suzuki engineered the running gear — the 657 cc F6A turbocharged three-cylinder, the five-speed manual, and the rear subframe — while Mazda designed the body and sold the car through Autozam, the budget sub-brand Mazda launched in 1989 to compete in the small-car segment alongside its Eunos and Efini channels. Approximately 4,392 examples left the Hiroshima factory before production ended; the car was JDM-only and never officially exported. It forms one third of the kei sports 'ABC trio' (Autozam AZ-1, Honda Beat, Suzuki Cappuccino) and was rebadged by Suzuki as the Cara (PG6SS), a near-identical sibling sold in much smaller numbers.

From JDM Buy Sell

Mazda Autozam AZ-1 listings for sale

Browse listings →

Autozam: Mazda's short-lived budget channel

Autozam was one of five Japanese-market sales channels Mazda operated during its early-1990s expansion (Mazda, Eunos, Autozam, Efini, Anfini). Each channel had its own showrooms and its own logo, and each was meant to slot a different buyer profile. Autozam handled the small-car end — the Carol kei (a rebadged Suzuki Alto), the Revue subcompact, and one halo model: the AZ-1. The AZ-1 was the channel's statement car, designed to draw foot traffic into showrooms that otherwise sold kei sedans. When Japan's asset price bubble collapsed and Mazda's multi-channel strategy proved unsustainable, the AZ-1 became one of the casualties: production stopped in 1995 and Autozam was wound down by the end of the decade.

The mid-engine kei layout

The AZ-1 places the F6A 657 cc turbocharged three-cylinder transversely behind the cabin, driving the rear wheels through a five-speed manual. Power is 64 PS (47 kW) and torque is 85 N·m — the kei output ceiling for the era. Curb weight is approximately 720 kg, the body uses plastic composite panels over a steel monocoque, and the gullwing doors hinge from the roof rail. The platform began as a Suzuki concept (the RS/3 of 1985) before Mazda took over the production-design brief; that origin is the reason the running gear is Suzuki F6A rather than Mazda's own kei powertrain. The Suzuki Cara (PG6SS), produced 1993–1995, shares the AZ-1's chassis, body shell and drivetrain with only minor cosmetic changes — a different grille, different badges, and standard fog lights.

Quick read

Key takeaways

From JDM Buy Sell

Import a JDM car — step-by-step guide

Read the guide →

Constants

Common across all Autozam AZ-1 generations

Chassis history

Generation timeline

The AZ-1 only had one chassis, the PG6SA, built from October 1992 to October 1995. What changed across the run wasn't the platform, it was the sub-variants. Mazdaspeed-equipped AZ-1s got factory aero and sport parts, the limited M2 1015 added fog lights in the bonnet, and the Suzuki Cara was the badge-engineered AZ-1 sold through Suzuki dealers.

PG6SA

PG6SA (657cc F6A turbo, kei; 1992–1995)

Buyer's call

Should you buy a Mazda Autozam AZ-1?

The AZ-1 trades practicality for theater. You get gullwing doors, a mid-engine kei layout that doesn't exist anywhere else, and a car that feels like a scaled-down supercar. You give up cabin space, parts availability, and any pretense of usability on a long drive.

Why you'll love it

  • True mid-engine balance MR layout delivers kart-like turn-in and rotation; unique among kei cars.
  • Gullwing-door theater Iconic doors and canopy styling create supercar vibes at kei scale.
  • Strong collector demand Limited supply and global JDM interest keep liquidity high for clean cars.
  • Lightweight performance feel Modest power feels lively due to ~720 kg curb weight and short gearing.
  • Simple, analog driving No driver aids; direct steering and pedals reward skilled inputs.
  • Kei running costs (some) Small tires and basic consumables can be affordable vs larger sports cars.
  • Community knowledge base Enthusiast forums and importers document common fixes and parts sources.

Why you might not

  • Rust is common and costly Sills, floors, rear subframe areas; repairs are labor-heavy and value-killing.
  • Parts scarcity and delays Trim, glass, door hardware, and interior bits can be hard to source.
  • Heat management challenges Mid-engine bay runs hot; cooling system health is critical in traffic.
  • Tiny cabin and entry/exit Tall/broad drivers struggle; gullwings need space and good struts.
  • Turbo F6A needs care Boost leaks, aging hoses, and oiling neglect can shorten turbo/engine life.
  • Accident history is frequent Many were driven hard; check chassis alignment and repaired fiberglass panels.
  • Modifications can hurt value Non-original wheels, aero, swaps reduce collector appeal unless period-correct.
  • Highway comfort is limited Short wheelbase, noise, and gearing make long trips tiring.
Who should not buy this
  • Drivers over 6'1" or broad-shouldered
  • Anyone needing rear seats or child-seat capability
  • People without indoor storage (leaks/rust risk)
  • Owners who can't wrench or lack kei specialists
  • Anyone expecting modern crash safety
  • Daily commuters in heavy traffic or hot climates
  • Buyers needing easy parts availability locally
  • People who hate squeaks, rattles, and cabin noise
  • Those wanting strong A/C and quick defogging
  • Drivers who park in low garages (gullwing clearance)
  • Anyone on a tight budget for surprise repairs
  • Track-day users unwilling to upgrade cooling
  • Buyers who require automatic transmission
  • People who need highway passing power at low RPM
  • Rust-belt residents without rust-proofing plans
  • Anyone needing high ground clearance
  • Owners who can't tolerate frequent maintenance
  • People expecting dealership-level diagnostics/support
  • Those who must pass strict emissions inspections
  • Anyone uncomfortable with right-hand drive

Reliability

Common issues & solutions

The AZ-1 isn't unreliable, but it is old, complex, and built in tiny numbers. Most of the trouble traces back to rust, cooling, or aging turbo plumbing. None of these are surprising on a 30-year-old turbocharged kei car, but they all cost more to fix on an AZ-1 because parts are scarce.

Issue Cause Solution Est. cost
Overheating in traffic Weak fans, clogged rad, air pockets, old hoses New rad, fans/relays, bleed properly, replace hoses $400-1200
Head gasket failure Overheating, detonation from lean boost, old coolant MLS gasket, head skim, studs, fix cooling/AFR $1200-2500
Turbocharger oil smoke Worn seals/bearings, coked oil from heat soak Rebuild/replace turbo; add proper cooldown habits $600-1600
Boost leaks / low boost Aged couplers, cracked hoses, loose clamps Pressure test; replace hoses/couplers; proper clamps $150-600
Detonation under boost Heat soak, bad fuel, overboost, weak ignition Lower boost, fix IC fan/ducting, plugs/coils, tune $200-1500
Intercooler fan failure Dead motor, relay, wiring corrosion, broken switch Replace fan/relay; clean grounds; verify temp trigger $150-500
Timing belt overdue Age neglect; low-mile imports still time out Belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, seals $500-1200
Water pump leak/noise Old pump bearings/seal; contaminated coolant Replace pump with timing service; flush coolant $450-1100
Oil leaks (top end) Hardened cam cover gasket, PCV issues Gasket/half-moons; service PCV; clean breathers $150-450
Rear main seal leak Age, crankcase pressure, worn seal lip Seal replacement during clutch; fix PCV $700-1400
Low oil pressure hot Worn bearings/pump; thin oil; overheating history Gauge verify; rebuild bottom end if confirmed $2500-6000
2nd/3rd gear synchro grind Worn synchros from hard shifts/old oil Rebuild trans; quality gear oil; replace worn hubs $1200-2500
Clutch slip Worn disc, oil contamination, higher boost Clutch kit; resurface flywheel; fix oil leaks $700-1500
Clutch master/slave leak Aged seals; moisture-contaminated fluid Replace master/slave; flush with fresh DOT4 $200-500
CV boot tears / clicking Age, heat, lowered suspension angles Reboot or replace axle; align ride height $200-700
Wheel bearing noise Age, water ingress, track heat Replace hub/bearing; inspect knuckle wear $250-700
Brake caliper seizure Corrosion, old fluid, torn dust boots Rebuild/replace calipers; flush fluid; new hoses $300-900
Brake hard line rust Road salt; trapped moisture under clips Replace lines; inspect all unions; undercoat properly $400-1200
Steering rack leak/play Torn boots, seal wear, contamination Rebuild/replace rack; new boots; align $600-1400
Rear subframe corrosion Salt exposure; thin factory coating Replace/repair subframe; treat and cavity wax $800-2500
Floor/sill rust perforation Water ingress from doors; trapped moisture Cut/weld metal; fix seals/drains; rust-proof $1500-6000
Gullwing door sag Hinge wear, cracked mounts, weak struts Rebuild hinges/mounts; replace struts; align doors $400-2000
Door water leaks Flattened seals, misalignment, blocked drains New seals; adjust hinges/latches; clear drains $200-1200
Pop-up headlight issues Worn gears, tired motors, sticky linkages Service linkage; replace gears/motor; clean grounds $200-800
Charging/voltage problems Weak alternator, corroded grounds, old battery Alternator rebuild; renew grounds; proper battery $250-700
Random misfire under load Old coils/leads, plug gap, poor grounds, boost leak Ignition refresh; correct plugs/gap; fix leaks/grounds $150-800
Heater core leak Corrosion from old coolant; age cracks Replace heater core; flush system; new hoses $600-1400
A/C not cold Leaks, dead compressor, incorrect refrigerant conversion Leak test; replace drier/seals; recharge correctly $400-1200
Fuel pump weak/clogged Tank rust/debris; old pump; stale fuel Clean tank; new pump/filter; flush lines $300-900
Exhaust manifold cracks Heat cycling; thin aftermarket headers Weld/replace manifold; new studs; proper support $300-1200
Engine mount collapse Age/heat; increased torque from mods Replace mounts; avoid solid mounts for street $250-800
Cooling system air locks Mid-engine plumbing; improper bleeding procedure Vacuum fill/bleed; verify thermostat and cap $100-400

Market

Differences between JDM & USDM

The Autozam AZ-1 was never officially exported and has no USDM equivalent. Mazda did not certify it for North American sale at any point during its 1992–1995 production run — the kei format itself sits outside FMVSS scope, and the car's gullwing doors, RHD-only configuration, and 657 cc turbocharged drivetrain were not engineered for export. Every AZ-1 in the United States arrived via the 25-year FMVSS exemption (49 CFR 591), which began legalizing the earliest October 1992 cars in late 2017 and finished with the final October 1995 examples in late 2020. Canadian buyers had a 15-year window open from 2007 onward and built up a longer ownership history; many US-market AZ-1s today were originally imported into Canada or arrived directly from Japan after the US 25-year date. Driving position is RHD throughout; no factory LHD conversion exists.

From JDM Buy Sell

Browse JDM listings from verified dealers worldwide

Browse all listings →

Specs

Technical specifications

Every AZ-1 runs the same drivetrain. The F6A 657cc turbocharged three-cylinder makes the kei-limit 64 PS, sends power through a 5-speed manual, and drives the rear wheels. There was no automatic option and no other engine option on the AZ-1.

Engine options

Chassis Engine Displacement Power Boost Notes
PG6SA F6A 0.657L 64 PS @ 6500rpm (estimated) estimated ~10-11 psi Kei limit output; intercooled turbo (est.)
PG6SA F6A 0.657L 63 hp @ 6500rpm (estimated) estimated ~10-11 psi Alt unit conversion; same JIS rating (est.)

Transmission options

Type Ratios Availability Notes
5-speed Manual 3.416/2.045/1.333/1.000/0.795 All AZ-1 trims Ratios estimated; factory 5MT only
Final drive 4.300 All AZ-1 trims Estimated final drive

Lineup

Variants & trims

The AZ-1 came in a base trim plus the Mazdaspeed package and the limited M2 1015 special edition. The Suzuki Cara is the badge-engineered sibling, mechanically identical with a different nose. The trim levels listed as Type A through Type L cover equipment packages and option content rather than mechanical differences.

Generation Trim Engine Key features
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Std) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Gullwing doors, mid-engine RWD, 5MT, alloy wheels
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (L) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Std + added comfort trim, audio, interior upgrades
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (M2 1015) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) M2-tuned parts, unique trim, limited-run equipment
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 Mazdaspeed F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Mazdaspeed aero, wheels, sport parts, limited
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type A) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Std equipment package, 5MT, midship layout
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type B) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, interior/option differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type C) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type D) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type E) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type F) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type G) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type H) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type I) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type J) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type K) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences
PG6SA (1992-1994) Autozam AZ-1 (Type L) F6A 657cc I3 Turbo (DOHC 12V) Equipment package variant, option content differences

Production

Sales numbers by year

Mazda built about 4,392 AZ-1s across the entire 1992 to 1995 production window. The car was JDM-only and never officially exported. The Suzuki Cara variant adds roughly another 530 cars to the PG6S platform total.

YearNotes
1992Production launched October 1992; partial-year output. Total platform production (AZ-1 + Suzuki Cara) reported at ~4,392 units across 1992–1995.
1995Production ended October 1995. Suzuki Cara variant (PG6SS) ran 1993–1995 with an estimated ~530 units, sold through Suzuki dealers.

Pricing

Average prices & original MSRP

AZ-1 prices have held firm because supply is thin and demand is global. A driver-grade AZ-1 trades around $18,000 to $25,000, a clean stock AZ-1 sits in the $30,000 to $45,000 range, and top originals with Mazdaspeed equipment can pass $55,000. Rust-free cars set the ceiling and rough imports set the floor.

Original MSRP: JPY1,498,000 at launch in 1992. Japanese launch price reported at approximately 1,498,000 yen for the standard AZ-1 at October 1992 introduction. Mazdaspeed-equipped cars and M2 specials carried higher prices. No USD launch price exists — the car was JDM-only.

Today's market range: $18,000 to $60,000 (median ~$34,000). Source: JDMBuySell / USS Auction.

Prices remain firm: supply is thin, and buyers pay up for stock, rust-free cars. Modified or rusty examples lag. Expect steady demand with occasional spikes tied to nostalgia and limited inventory; top originals still trend upward.

Inspect

Pre-purchase inspection checklist

Walk this list before you transfer money. The Critical items on an AZ-1 are rust and crash damage. Everything else can be priced into the deal, but a bent subframe or rotten floorpan turns a $30,000 AZ-1 into a parts donor.

Critical priority

  • Rust: sills Inspect rocker/sill seams for bubbling & soft spots
  • Rust: floorpans Lift mats; check floorpans for patches & pinholes
  • Crash structure Check front rails for kinks; measure panel gaps
  • Rear subframe Inspect rear subframe for rust, cracks, bent mounts
  • Susp mount points Inspect strut tops & control arm mounts for cracks
  • Compression test Warm compression; big spread suggests ring/valve issues
  • Cooling system Pressure test; check radiator, cap, hoses, heater lines
  • Radiator fans Confirm both fans cycle; overheating is catastrophic
  • Oil pressure Verify hot idle pressure; low = worn pump/bearings
  • Timing belt Confirm belt/water pump date; inspect for cracks
  • Brake lines Check hard lines for rust; flex lines for cracks
  • VIN/ID plates Match chassis plate, stamped VIN, import paperwork

High priority

  • Rust: rear arches Check rear arch lips & inner tubs for rust/repairs
  • Rust: front trunk Check frunk corners & drain areas for rust
  • Rust: rear bay Inspect engine bay seams & rear panel for corrosion
  • Front crossmember Check crossmember for rust & tow/impact damage
  • Door hinges Check gullwing hinges for play, cracks, binding
  • Door seals Check seals for tears; look for water tracks inside
  • Roof gutters Inspect roof channels for cracks & blocked drains
  • Windshield frame Check A-pillars for rust; look for glass replacement
  • Engine cold start Listen for top-end tick; watch smoke on start
  • Turbo condition Check shaft play & oil in inlet; boost response on road
  • Boost leaks Inspect intercooler hoses for oil, splits, loose clamps
  • Intercooler fan Verify fan runs; heat soak kills power & raises knock
  • Coolant quality Look for rust/sludge; check overflow for oil sheen
  • Oil leaks Check cam cover, turbo feed/return, rear main area
  • Water pump Check weep hole stains; listen for bearing noise
  • Fuel system Smell for fuel; inspect lines, filter, injector seals
  • Fuel tank rust Check tank straps/neck; rust flakes clog pump/filter
  • Ignition system Inspect coils/leads; misfire under boost is common
  • ECU mods Check for piggybacks/boost controllers; verify safe tune
  • Exhaust cracks Check manifold/downpipe for cracks & missing studs
  • Transmission Test 2nd/3rd synchros; grind = rebuild soon
  • Clutch slip Full-boost pull in 3rd; watch RPM flare
  • Driveshafts/CVs Check CV boots; click on lock; vibration on accel
  • Brakes Inspect caliper sliders, seized pistons, pad taper
  • Steering rack Check for leaks & play; torn boots let grit in
  • Alignment wear Uneven tire wear suggests bent arms/subframe shift
  • Battery/charging Check alternator output; low voltage causes ECU issues
  • Heater core Check sweet smell/fogging; leaks soak carpets
  • Interior leaks Check damp carpets behind seats & footwells
  • Seat rails Check for looseness; floor rust often starts here
  • Service records Look for timing belt, coolant, brake fluid history

Medium priority

  • Door struts Confirm doors stay up; struts not weak or leaking
  • Rear hatch glass Check for delam, leaks, and trim fitment
  • Underbody panels Confirm undertrays present; missing = heat/water issues
  • Catalyst status Confirm cat present if required; check for rattles
  • Clutch hydraulics Check master/slave leaks; pedal feel consistent
  • Wheel bearings Listen for hum; check play; rear bearings take heat
  • Shocks/struts Check for leaks; bounce test; AZ-1 hates cheap coils
  • Bushings Inspect trailing arm & control arm bush cracks
  • Wheels/tires Verify correct stagger; mismatched sizes upset handling
  • Ground points Inspect engine/body grounds; corrosion causes misfires
  • Fusebox Check for melted terminals; old relays cause no-start
  • Lighting Test pop-ups, signals, brake lights; check stalks
  • A/C function Confirm compressor engages; check for converted refrigerant
  • Cluster warning Verify all warning lamps work; missing bulbs hide faults

Low priority

  • HVAC blower Verify all speeds; resistor failures are common
  • Spare keys Confirm 2 keys; lock sets are annoying to source

Cross-shop

Comparable alternatives

If the AZ-1 doesn't work out, the obvious alternatives are the other two cars in the ABC trio. The Honda Beat is the naturally aspirated mid-engine roadster, and the Suzuki Cappuccino is the turbocharged front-engine convertible. The Suzuki Cara is the same car as the AZ-1 with different badges and is usually cheaper.

Honda Beat PP1

Same kei era; MR purity, NA character, strong collector base

Suzuki Cappuccino EA11R

Kei sports icon; turbo FR feel, more usable roof options

Suzuki Cara PG6SS

AZ-1 twin; similar drive, sometimes different pricing/rarity

Daihatsu Copen L880K

Later kei roadster; easier parts, modern comfort, still small/fun

Toyota MR2 SW20

Bigger MR alternative; more power and support, less rare/quirky

Compare

How it compares

The AZ-1 only really competes with the Honda Beat and the Suzuki Cappuccino because those are the cars buyers actually cross-shop. The AZ-1 is the most exotic of the three with its gullwing doors and turbo MR layout. The Beat is the driver's car and the Cappuccino is the usable one.

Feature Mazda Autozam AZ-1 Honda Beat PP1 Suzuki Cappuccino EA11R
Layout Mid-engine RWD Mid-engine RWD Front-engine FWD
Engine 657cc F6A turbo I3 656cc E07A NA I3 657cc F6A turbo I3
Power (JDM kei cap) 64 PS (claimed) 64 PS (claimed) 64 PS (claimed)
Induction Turbocharged Naturally aspirated Turbocharged
Transmission 5MT 5MT 5MT
Curb weight ~720 kg ~760 kg ~725-750 kg
Body style Coupe, gullwing Roadster, targa Roadster, hardtop
Practicality Very low cargo Low cargo Moderate for kei
Driving character Boosty, pointy MR High-rev NA, playful Turbo FR feel, stable
Parts availability Challenging Challenging Moderate
Collector premium High (icon factor) High (purist appeal) High (usable classic)
Rarity in export mkts Very rare Rare Less rare
Value sensitivity High to originality High to condition Moderate
Direct rival (twin) Autozam AZ-1 Same platform Same kei era niche
Maintenance complexity Medium-high (MR) Medium (MR NA) Medium (FR turbo)
Cabin space Tight Tight Tight but airy

Gallery

Editorial

The buyer's read

If you're buying an AZ-1, the first thing to accept is that you're shopping rust before anything else. The AZ-1 has a steel monocoque under its plastic body panels, and that steel rusts at the sills, the floorpans, the rear subframe, and the suspension pickups. A clean Japanese auction sheet with photos of the underside matters more than mileage on an AZ-1. A low-mile car with rotten sills is a worse buy than a higher-mile car that's been kept dry.

The right AZ-1 for most people is a stock, documented car with the timing belt and water pump done recently. The F6A is a small turbo engine that doesn't like neglect. Overheating once on an AZ-1 can mean a head gasket, and the mid-engine cooling plumbing is fussy to bleed properly. If the seller can't tell you when the coolant was last changed and the intercooler fan was tested, walk away or price it as a project.

Skip the M2 1015 unless the paperwork is bulletproof. Only about 25 of the 50 announced cars actually sold, M2 broke up the rest for parts, and the variant gets faked. Mazdaspeed AZ-1s are easier to verify because the parts are documented, but you'll still pay a premium and you need to confirm every Mazdaspeed piece is actually there.

The Suzuki Cara is the value buy if you can find one. It's the same car as an AZ-1 with different badges and a different grille. There are only about 530 of them, so they're rarer than the AZ-1, but the collector market hasn't fully priced that in yet. If originality matters to you and the gullwing doors are what you're after, get an AZ-1. If you just want the driving experience, a Cara is the same thing for less money.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

What is the Autozam AZ-1 and why is it special?
A 1992–1994 kei mid-engine coupe with gullwing doors. Rarity and design drive collector demand.
What should I pay for a good AZ-1 today?
Most trade around $18k–$45k; top originals can exceed $55k. Rust-free, stock cars bring premiums.
When is the AZ-1 legal to import to the US?
Under the 25-year rule, 1992 cars became legal in 2017; the last 1994 cars in 2019.
What are the biggest problem areas to inspect?
Rust, crash repairs, cooling system health, door struts/hinges, and missing trim. Verify chassis straightness.
Is the AZ-1 reliable as a weekend car?
Yes if maintained: fresh hoses, coolant, and turbo oiling. Expect age-related issues and parts hunting.
Do modifications hurt AZ-1 value?
Often yes. Collectors pay for original wheels/trim/aero. Period-correct upgrades with documentation fare better.
How does it compare to a Honda Beat or Cappuccino?
AZ-1 is the most exotic (gullwing MR turbo). Beat is revvy NA; Cappuccino is more usable with FR balance.
What options or variants are most desirable?
Mazdaspeed-equipped cars and verified M2 specials lead. Documentation and complete parts are critical.

Citations

Sources & references

  1. Autozam AZ-1 — encyclopedic overview — WikipediaVerified
  2. Driving the Autozam AZ-1 in Japan — Top GearVerified
  3. Every day is O-Kei in the Autozam AZ-1 microcar — Driving.caVerified
  4. K-cars: All you need to know about them — CrooooberVerified
  5. Suzuki Cara — encyclopedic overview of the AZ-1 sibling — WikipediaVerified
  6. Autozam — Mazda's small-car sub-brand (1989–1998) — WikipediaVerified
  7. Kei car — regulatory background and 660 cc displacement cap — WikipediaVerified
  8. Autozam AZ-1 sales results archive — Bring a TrailerVerified
  9. Autozam AZ-1 — feature article — SilodromeVerified
  10. Autozam AZ-1 auction results search — Cars & BidsVerified
  11. Strange & crazy cars (404 — preserved from WP source for citation lineage) — AutomoblogLink dead

Sources last verified: