DC5 Type R values trail the DC2 but have appreciated meaningfully since 2020. Clean, low-mile JDM DC5R cars trade in the $40,000–$70,000 range; USDM Acura RSX Type-S cars remain the value alternative at $10,000–$20,000 for tidy examples. Watch for K20A timing chain tensioner wear (a known issue at 100,000+ km), valve adjustment service evidence (the K-series uses solid lifters and needs periodic clearance checks), chassis cracks at the rear lower control arm mounts on track-driven cars, and the typical Honda concerns around rust and theft. The DC5 platform shares meaningful hardware with the EP3 Civic Type R and FD2 Civic Type R, which keeps parts availability strong.
Buyer's guide
Honda Integra DC5 — Buyer's Guide & Specs
The fourth-generation Integra (DC5, 2001–2006) was a clean-sheet redesign — new platform, new K20A i-VTEC engine (replacing the B-series), and a 6-speed manual that replaced the DC2's close-ratio 5-speed. The JDM Integra Type R produced 220 ps at 8,000 rpm with the redline at 8,600 rpm; the post-2004 facelift refined the ECU mapping, suspension tuning, and aero. The base JDM iS and USDM Acura RSX (DC5 chassis) used the lower-output K20A3 in 160 hp tune, while the USDM RSX Type-S received the K20A2 at 200 hp — but the USDM market never received a Type R-badged DC5.
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Key Takeaways
The Integra ran from 1985 until 2006 across four generations, and they really do feel like different cars. The DA cars are the lightweight 80s coupes with pop-up headlights and the first VTEC engine in the JDM Si and SiR trims. The DC2 is the icon, with the Type R that set the FWD handling benchmark. The DC5 swapped the B-series for the K20A and went stiffer, heavier, and faster. The first-gen AV cars are interesting historically but not what most buyers are after.
- DC2/DB8 Type R is the value leader and most collectible
- Stock, rust-free cars command big premiums vs modified
- B18C/B16A reward maintenance; timing belt is critical
- RHD JDM supply is finite; 25-year rule boosts demand
- Rust/accident history are the biggest price killers
- USDM GS-R is a strong alternative to JDM Type R pricing
Technical Specifications
Every Integra is front-wheel drive. The AV cars run the 1.5 EW5 or 1.6 ZC. The DA and DC2 era cars get the B-series, with the B16A and B18C being the engines you actually want. The B18C in Type R tune makes 200 ps. The DC5 switched to the K20A i-VTEC, which makes 220 ps in JDM Type R spec. The 5-speed manual is the gearbox on the B-series cars and the DC5 Type R got a 6-speed.
Engine Options
| Engine | Displacement | Power | Boost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| K20A3 | 2.0L | 160hp @ 6500rpm (estimated) | N/A | i-VTEC economy cam; 5MT/5AT |
| K20A2 | 2.0L | 200hp @ 7400rpm (estimated) | N/A | i-VTEC performance; 6MT; 7900rpm redline |
| K20A | 2.0L | 220ps @ 8000rpm (estimated) | N/A | JDM Type R; high-lift cams; LSD; 8600rpm |
Transmission Options
| Type | Ratios | Availability | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5-speed Manual | varies by engine/market | Most trims (1985-2006) | Cable/hydraulic by era; close ratios on sport |
| 4-speed Automatic | varies by engine/market | Many non-Type R trims | Hydraulic/ECT by era; not on most Type R |
| 6-speed Manual | varies by model | DC5/DE5 Type S/Type R | Close ratio; LSD on Type R |
| 5-speed Automatic | varies by model | DC5 base/iS, some JDM iS | SportShift on some markets |
Livability
- Headroom
- 37.5"
- Low roof; tall drivers may brush head with helmet
- Rear Seats
- Tight 2+2
- Adults fit short trips; legroom limited behind tall driver
- Cargo
- 12-16 cu ft
- Hatchbacks practical; coupes/sedans less flexible
Variants & Trims
The trim that matters most on the Integra is Type R. The JDM DC2 Type R got the hand-ported B18C, a helical LSD, a seam-welded shell, and a curb weight near 1,100 kg. The USDM Acura Integra Type R is similar but the JDM car got more aggressive cams, higher compression, and a 200 ps rating versus 195 hp on the Acura. The non-Type R SiR, GS-R, and Si-VTEC trims share the same chassis and most of the suspension hardware, which is why they're the value play.
| Generation | Trim | Engine | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra iS (JDM/EDM) | K20A3/K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | i-VTEC, 5MT/5AT, comfort sport mix |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type S (USDM Acura RSX Type-S) | K20A2 2.0 i-VTEC | 200hp class, 6MT, sport suspension, 4W disc |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC5) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | Type R, LSD, Brembo, Recaro, close 6MT |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC5 '05+) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | facelift, revised ECU, LSD, Brembo, 6MT |
Should You Buy a Honda Integra DC5?
The Integra is a Honda, so you get the usual upside. Cheap parts, easy mechanical work, engines that take a beating, and an aftermarket that can build you anything. The downsides are also Honda problems. Theft, rust on the rear quarters, an interior that didn't age well, and front-wheel drive that some buyers see as a dealbreaker. None of it is a surprise once you've owned one.
Why You'll Love It
- Type R benchmark handling DC2/DC5 Type R deliver sharp turn-in, balance, and feedback; still a FWD reference point.
- High-rev VTEC character B16/B18 and K20A reward revs; engaging power delivery with strong motorsport heritage.
- Strong reliability when maintained Engines/drivetrains are durable with proper timing belt, oiling, cooling, and quality parts.
- Huge parts & community support Excellent OEM/aftermarket availability, knowledge base, and tuning solutions worldwide.
- Usable classic performance Practical hatch/sedan packaging, good visibility, and low running costs vs many JDM rivals.
- Collector upside for clean cars Unmodified, documented Type R and GS-R/SiR examples show sustained demand and liquidity.
Why You Might Not
- Rust is a major value killer Rear quarters, sills, floors, strut towers, and subframes rust; repairs are costly and visible.
- Many are modified or abused Track/drift/stance builds, engine swaps, and poor wiring reduce value and reliability.
- Theft risk and insurance issues High theft rates for Type R/GS-R parts; consider immobilizers, trackers, and secure storage.
- Aging interior & trim scarcity OEM Recaros, dash plastics, weatherstrips, and Type R-specific bits can be expensive to source.
- Import compliance complexity RHD/JDM imports need careful paperwork, emissions/state rules, and parts compatibility checks.
- FWD limits vs RWD rivals Torque steer and traction limits appear with power mods; big builds need LSD and chassis work.
Who Should NOT Buy This
- Anyone needing modern crash safety and airbags
- Buyers who can't tolerate 25+ year old car issues
- People without a trusted Honda/JDM specialist shop
- Drivers who need quiet cabin and zero rattles
- Those who require perfect A/C in hot climates
- Owners who can't budget $1k-3k for surprise repairs
- People who must pass strict emissions inspections
- California residents if engine swap/cat not compliant
- Anyone who won't do frequent fluid maintenance
- Buyers who hate stiff ride on Type R/coilovers
- Tall drivers over 6'2" wanting helmet clearance
- Families needing real rear seats and easy child seats
- People who park outside in rust/salt environments
- Anyone expecting theft-proof ownership without effort
- Buyers who want stock, unmodified examples cheaply
- Those unwilling to walk from poorly done mods/swaps
- People who need automatic-only convenience
- Owners who can't store it securely (high theft risk)
- Anyone expecting cheap OEM parts for rare JDM trims
- Drivers who won't accept premium fuel requirements
Common Issues & Solutions
The Integra is a tough car mechanically. Most of what goes wrong on one is age, not design. The rear quarter panels rust. The taillight gaskets leak and the trunk gets wet. The door locks and other electronics get flaky. Oil seeps from the valve cover gasket and the cam seals. The B and K series engines themselves rarely cause trouble if the timing belt or chain has been kept on top of.
| Issue | Cause | Solution | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2nd/3rd gear synchro grind | Worn synchros from hard shifting/old fluid | Rebuild trans w/synchros; use correct MTF | $1200-3000 |
| Manual trans input bearing whine | Bearing wear, low/dirty fluid, high mileage | Transmission rebuild; replace bearings/seals | $1500-3500 |
| Clutch slip or chatter | Worn disc/pressure plate; oil contamination | Replace clutch kit; resurface flywheel; fix leaks | $700-1600 |
| Rear main seal oil leak | Aged seal; crankcase pressure; high mileage | Replace rear main seal during clutch service | $600-1400 |
| VTEC solenoid gasket leak | Hardened gasket and screen clogging | Replace gasket/screen; clean; verify oil pressure | $80-250 |
| Cam seal/cap oil leak | Aged seals; poor prior service; crankcase pressure | Replace cam seals/cap seal; reseal as needed | $200-600 |
| Oil pan seep/leak | Old RTV, pan dents, over-torqued bolts | Reseal pan; straighten/replace if dented | $200-500 |
| Blue smoke on decel | Valve stem seals worn from age/heat | Replace valve seals; inspect guides; valve job if needed | $900-2200 |
| Blue smoke on accel | Worn rings/cylinder wear; poor maintenance | Engine rebuild or replacement long block | $2500-7000 |
| Idle hunting/surging | Dirty IACV/FITV, vacuum leaks, TB carbon | Clean/repair IACV/FITV; smoke test; base idle set | $150-600 |
| Random misfire at idle | Bad plugs/wires/coil, valve lash, grounds | Tune-up; adjust valves; repair grounds/wiring | $150-800 |
| Valve lash noise/tick | Valves out of adjustment; neglected service | Adjust valve lash; inspect cam lobes | $200-500 |
| Timing belt overdue (B-series) | Skipped service interval; unknown history | Replace belt, tensioner, water pump, seals | $600-1200 |
| Timing chain/tensioner wear | K-series tensioner wear; low oil; high miles | Replace chain/tensioner/guides; inspect VTC gear | $900-2200 |
| Overheating in traffic | Bad fan switch/relay, clogged rad, stuck thermostat | Diagnose fans; replace radiator/thermostat as needed | $250-900 |
| Radiator end tank crack | Aged plastic tanks; heat cycling | Replace radiator and cap; bleed system properly | $250-650 |
| Head gasket failure | Prior overheating; detonation; poor tune | Head gasket job; check head flatness; new bolts | $1200-2800 |
| Heater core leak | Corrosion/age; coolant neglect | Replace heater core; flush system; new hoses | $800-1600 |
| Power steering pump whine | Old fluid, pump wear, suction leak at O-ring | Replace O-ring; flush; rebuild/replace pump | $80-600 |
| Steering rack leak/play | Worn seals/bushings; torn boots; age | Replace/reseal rack; align; replace tie rods | $700-1600 |
| Front LCA bushing failure | Aged rubber; lowered cars stress bushings | Replace bushings or arms; align afterward | $300-900 |
| Ball joint wear/failure | Age, torn boots, lowered suspension angles | Replace ball joints/arms immediately; safety item | $250-800 |
| Wheel bearing hum | Bearing wear; track use; impacts | Replace hub/bearing; check knuckle condition | $300-900 |
| CV axle vibration/click | Worn joints; torn boots; cheap reman axles | Use quality axles; replace seals; torque axle nut | $250-700 |
| Brake caliper slider seize | Lack of grease; torn boots; corrosion | Rebuild/replace calipers; new hardware; flush fluid | $250-800 |
| Rusty brake hard lines | Road salt; aged coatings; neglected underbody | Replace lines; inspect hoses; full bleed | $400-1200 |
| ABS sensor/wiring faults | Broken sensor wires; rust at tone rings | Repair wiring; replace sensors; clean tone rings | $200-900 |
| Hatch/trunk water leaks | Bad seals, tail light gaskets, clogged drains | Replace seals/gaskets; clear drains; reseal seams | $100-600 |
| Sunroof drain overflow | Clogged drains; cracked drain tubes | Clear/replace drains; dry interior; treat mold | $100-500 |
| Floor/spare well rust | Chronic water intrusion; salt exposure | Cut/patch weld; treat rust; fix leak source | $500-2500 |
| Rear quarter/arch rust | Trapped debris in arch lip; poor prior repairs | Proper metal repair; avoid filler-only fixes | $800-4000 |
| Cracked dash/rattles | UV exposure; age; prior interior removal | Dash cap/replace; add clips/foam for rattles | $150-1200 |
| Window regulator failure | Worn cables/plastic guides; dry tracks | Replace regulator; lube tracks; check switches | $200-500 |
| Door lock actuator weak | Motor wear; sticky linkages; low voltage | Replace actuator; service linkage; verify grounds | $150-450 |
| Alternator weak/charging drop | Worn brushes/diodes; heat; oil contamination | Replace alternator; fix oil leaks; belt tension | $250-650 |
| Aftermarket wiring gremlins | Alarm/audio hacks; poor grounds; twisted splices | Remove hacks; re-pin/repair harness; add grounds | $200-1500 |
| Engine swap integration issues | Wrong ECU/harness; sensor mismatch; bad mounts | Correct ECU/harness; proper mounts; professional tune | $500-4000 |
| Catalyst missing/clogged | Stolen cat; cheap exhaust; rich tune melts cat | Install correct cat; fix fueling; new O2 sensors | $300-1800 |
| O2 sensor slow response | Aged sensor; exhaust leaks; wiring damage | Fix leaks; replace O2; verify fuel trims | $150-450 |
| Fuel pump whining/failure | Old pump; clogged sock; running low on fuel often | Replace pump/filter; clean tank if contaminated | $250-700 |
| Fuel smell/leaking lines | Aged rubber lines; cracked filler neck hoses | Replace hoses/clamps; inspect hard lines | $150-600 |
| Engine mounts torn | Age; aggressive driving; stiff aftermarket mounts | Replace mounts; avoid ultra-stiff street setups | $250-900 |
| Exhaust manifold crack/leak | Heat cycling; thin aftermarket headers | Weld/replace manifold; new gaskets; check studs | $200-900 |
| A/C weak or inop | Leaks at seals; compressor wear; condenser damage | Leak test; replace failed parts; evacuate/recharge | $300-1500 |
Differences between JDM & USDM
The Honda Integra (JDM) and Acura Integra (USDM/Canada/Mexico) share the same chassis codes and core hardware, but the Type R lineage diverged significantly. In Japan, the Integra Type R was a continuous JDM offering from August 1995 (DC2 96-spec) through July 2006 (DC5 final-run). In the United States, the Acura Integra Type R was sold only across 1997, 1998, 2000, and 2001 — Honda paused USDM production in 1999. The USDM B18C5 (Type R) is mechanically nearly identical to the JDM B18C (Type R) — both hand-ported, both helical LSD — but the JDM car has slightly more aggressive cams, a higher redline (8,500 vs 8,400 rpm), the 4-piston front Brembo in 98-spec form, and quieter exhaust tuning to suit Japanese noise regulations. The DC5 split was sharper: Japan got the K20A-powered DC5 Integra Type R with 220 ps, while the United States received only the Acura RSX (DC5 chassis) with the K20A2 in Type-S form (200 hp) — there was no USDM Acura RSX Type R. The DC5 generation never sold in the United States under either the Honda or Acura Integra name. RHD applies to all JDM Integras; LHD applies to all USDM and Canadian Acura Integras.
DC2 vs DC5 Integra Type R comparison
Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
Walk this list with the seller, not in front of them. The Critical items mean walking away if there's no paperwork backing them up. The High items can usually be priced into the deal. On any Integra, the rust check on the rear quarters and the timing belt history on the B-series matter more than anything else. Type R cars need an extra pass for swap evidence, since an engine swap on a Type R is a value killer.
Critical Priority
- VIN/Chassis ID Verify VIN tags match; check for tampering
- Import/Title Status Confirm legal import/title; no salvage branding
- Accident Structure Check apron rails for wrinkles/uneven seams
- Frame Rails Inspect rails for kinks, rust, crushed jack points
- Roof/A-Pillars Check for ripples; signs of rollover repair
- Underbody Rust Probe floor seams; look for flaking scale
- Engine Cold Start Start cold; listen for knock, valvetrain tick
- Oil Condition Check level/color; fuel smell or glitter is bad
- Cooling System Check rad end tanks, hoses; pressure test if possible
- Overheat History Check for warped head signs: bubbles, pressurizing
- Compression Test Verify even compression across cylinders
- Leakdown Test Confirm ring/valve health; listen at intake/exhaust
- Timing Belt Service B-series: verify belt/water pump date & receipts
- Exhaust Smoke Blue smoke on decel = seals; accel = rings
- Transmission Syncros 2nd/3rd grind on fast shifts; test hot and cold
- Ball Joints Check for play; torn boots; safety-critical
- Brake Lines Inspect hard lines for rust; flex lines for cracks
- Engine Mods Quality Check tune, injectors, fuel pump, wiring, sensors
- Turbo/Supercharger Check oil feed/return, smoke, boost creep, tune
- Swap Legitimacy Verify engine code/ECU/harness; emissions legality
High Priority
- Front Core Support Look for non-OE welds, bent rad support
- Rear Quarter Panels Check for filler, waviness, overspray at edges
- Rear Wheel Arches Check inner lip rust; bubbling under paint
- Rocker Panels Inspect pinch welds; rust, crushed from jacks
- Spare Tire Well Lift carpet; check for water, rust, repairs
- Oil Leaks Inspect VTEC solenoid, cam seals, oil pan, rear main
- Coolant Quality Look for oil film/rust; confirm proper Honda coolant
- Timing Chain Noise K-series: listen for chain rattle; check tensioner
- Idle Quality Watch for hunting idle; IACV/FITV/throttle issues
- VTEC Engagement Confirm VTEC hits clean; no CEL or limp mode
- Fuel System Check fuel smell; inspect lines, filter, pump noise
- Fuel Tank Rust Older cars: inspect tank straps and filler neck
- Radiator Fans Confirm both fans cycle; check relays/switch
- Heater Operation Check heat output; sweet smell = heater core leak
- Clutch/Engagement Check slip in 3rd/4th; high bite point
- Axles/CV Joints Check torn boots; clicking on full lock
- Wheel Bearings Listen for hum; check play at 12/6 o'clock
- Suspension Bushings Inspect compliance/LCAs; cracked rubber, clunks
- Tie Rods Check inner/outer play; steering wander
- Steering Rack Look for leaks; feel for dead spot or binding
- Brake Calipers Check seized sliders; uneven pad wear
- Brake Pedal Feel Spongy pedal = air/leaks; hard pedal = booster
- ECU/OBD Codes Scan for codes; check readiness monitors if OBD2
- Wiring Hacks Look for splices for alarm/audio/engine swap
- SRS/Airbags SRS light on = expensive; check crash sensor wiring
- Interior Water Leaks Check wet carpets; musty smell; under-seat rust
- Pedal Box/Firewall Check clutch pedal bracket cracks; squeaks
- Test Drive Heat Soak Drive 20+ min; watch temp, idle, hot restart
- Catalyst Status Confirm cat present; no rattles; emissions risk
- Service Records Look for timing service, valve adj, fluid intervals
Medium Priority
- Windshield Cowl Check for leaks; rust at cowl corners
- Door Bottoms Inspect drain holes; rust and swelling seams
- Hatch/Trunk Seals Check seal tears; water trails in cargo area
- Sunroof Drains Pour water; confirm drains flow, no headliner stains
- Paint Consistency Check panel gaps; mismatched orange peel/texture
- Vacuum Leaks Check cracked hoses; brake booster hiss
- Engine Mounts Check for excessive movement; torn mounts
- PCV System Check PCV valve; excessive crankcase pressure
- Hydraulic Clutch Inspect master/slave leaks; spongy pedal
- LSD Function Type R/SiR: tight turns; listen for chatter/lock
- Power Steering Pump Listen for whine; check fluid condition and leaks
- ABS System Confirm ABS light off; test on gravel if safe
- Wheels/Tires Check bent wheels; uneven wear indicates alignment
- Alignment/Tracking Road test: pull, steering off-center, tramlining
- Charging System Check alternator output; dim lights at idle
- Ground Straps Inspect engine/chassis grounds; random misfires
- HVAC Controls Test all modes; blend door issues on older cars
- A/C Performance Check vent temp; compressor noise; leaks at lines
- Window Regulators Slow/stuck windows; listen for cable crunch
- Seat Rails Check wobble; broken rails from track use
- Braking Vibration Check for rotor warp; suspension play can mimic
- Clunk Over Bumps Listen for endlinks, top hats, bushings, mounts
- Wheel Hop Hard accel: check mounts, bushings, axles
- Exhaust Leaks Check manifold cracks, donut gasket, flex pipe
- O2 Sensors Check fuel trims; lazy O2 causes poor MPG
- Keys/Immobilizer Confirm all keys; immobilizer issues on newer DC5
Low Priority
- Headlights/Taillights Check for condensation; broken tabs, poor fit
- Battery/Terminals Check corrosion; undersized battery causes issues
- Gauges/Cluster Confirm tach/speedo work; check backlight flicker
- Door Locks Test actuators; key cylinder wear and sticking
- Seat Bolsters Heavy wear suggests high mileage or track use
Generation History
1st Gen DA1/DA2/DA3 (1985-1989)
- Pop-up headlamps; early sporty Honda coupe
- D-series/ZC engines; light curb weights
- Period-correct classic; limited US collector focus
2nd Gen DA/DB (1989-1993)
- First widely loved Integra shape; double wishbone
- B16A VTEC in JDM; strong aftermarket support
- Rust and age are primary concerns today
3rd Gen DC/DB (1993-2001)
- Peak Integra era; DC2/DB8 chassis is the icon
- Type R (JDM/USDM) sets benchmark for FWD handling
- B18C variants; huge parts ecosystem and tuning scene
4th Gen DC5 (2001-2006)
- K-series era; Type R with K20A i-VTEC
- More rigid, modern; different feel vs DC2
- JDM DC5R values strong; USDM RSX Type-S cheaper
Market Data
Production Numbers & Rarity
| Generation | Years | Total Built | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1st gen (AV/DA0/DA3; market dependent) | 1985-1989 | unknown (estimated ~300,000+) | Global totals not centrally published; estimate |
| 2nd gen (DA; JDM/EDM) / 1st gen USDM | 1989-1993 | unknown (estimated ~500,000+) | Multiple plants/markets; no single official total |
| 3rd gen (DB/DC; JDM/EDM) / 2nd gen USDM | 1993-2001 (varies by market) | unknown (estimated ~1,000,000+) | High-volume era; Type R is small subset |
| 4th/5th gen (DC5; global) | 2001-2006 | unknown (estimated ~300,000-400,000) | Includes Acura RSX; Type R is low volume |
| 6th gen (DE; JDM only) | 2007-2011 | unknown (estimated ~20,000-40,000) | Japan-only; Type R rare vs mainstream models |
Rarest variant: Integra Type R (DA)
Original MSRP & Pricing
Original MSRP: $11,280 at launch in 1986. USDM Acura Integra RS three-door launch price for the 1986 model year (source: Wikipedia Acura Integra entry; period MotorTrend). 1997 USDM Acura Integra Type R launched at $23,800. JDM launch pricing was set in yen and varied by trim; the USDM dollar figure is the most-cited launch benchmark.
How It Compares
The Integra sits in an odd spot. It's faster than most hot hatches, lighter than the sports cars in its price bracket, and front-wheel drive in a segment that's mostly rear-wheel drive. The table below leans toward the Integra's strengths because that's where it actually wins, on chassis discipline, parts availability, and the way a stock Type R drives versus anything else with two driven wheels.
| Feature | DC5 | Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T | Toyota Supra JZA80 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Layout/Drive | FWD, I4 NA | RWD, I6 TT | RWD, I6 NA/TT |
| Icon trim | DC2/DB8 Type R | FD3S Type R/RS | Evo IV-VI GSR/RS |
| Power (stock) | DC2R ~197hp (JDM) | FD3S ~255hp (JDM) | Evo V ~276hp (JDM) |
| Weight (approx) | DC2R ~2,350 lb | FD3S ~2,800 lb | Evo V ~3,000 lb |
| Handling feel | Light, precise, playful | Balanced, RWD, boosty | AWD grip, heavier nose |
| Engine family | B-series / K-series | 13B-REW rotary | SR20DET turbo I4 |
| Reliability baseline | High if maintained | Higher upkeep (rotary) | Good; turbo adds heat |
| Running costs | Low-moderate | Moderate-high | Moderate-high |
| Tuning headroom | NA gains modest; swaps | Big gains w/ boost | Big gains w/ boost |
| Collector demand | Very strong (Type R) | Strong (clean turbo cars) | Strong (halo model) |
| Practicality | Hatch/sedan, usable | Coupe, tight rear | 2+2, larger footprint |
| USDM counterpart | Integra GS-R / Type R | Civic Si/SiR | RSX Type-S |
| Track-day value | Excellent consumables | Higher tire/brake costs | Higher tire/brake costs |
Comparable Alternatives
If the Integra doesn't end up being the right car, the natural alternatives are the Honda Civic EK9 Type R if you want the hot hatch version of the same idea, or the Acura RSX Type-S if you want a DC5 chassis car at a fraction of JDM Type R money. The Acura Integra Type R is the same DC2 with US specs and easier paperwork. The Nissan Silvia S15 is the obvious sideways step if front-wheel drive is the dealbreaker.
Acura Integra Type R
USDM DC2R; LHD, easier parts; still pricey
Honda Civic EK9 Type R
Similar B16 VTEC feel; lighter; prices often higher
Acura RSX Type-S
K20 power, modern chassis; cheaper than JDM DC5R
Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205
Turbo AWD pace; more complex but strong JDM appeal
Nissan Silvia S15 Spec R
RWD turbo alternative; higher running costs, strong demand
In Pictures
The Buyer's Read
If you're buying an Integra, the question is whether you want a Type R or you want an Integra. They're different conversations. A clean, documented DC2 Type R is the icon of the model and the values reflect that. Expect $60,000 plus for a USDM ITR in original paint, and $80,000 to $100,000 plus for a JDM 98-spec or 00-spec car. Modifications kill value harder on the Type R than anywhere else in the Honda range, so the cars worth chasing are unmolested with seam-welds intact, no swap, and a full timing belt history.
If you don't need the Type R badge, the GS-R and SiR cars are the value play. Same chassis, most of the suspension hardware, and the B18C in non-Type R tune still makes 170 to 180 hp. Budget around $10,000 to $20,000 for a clean DC2 GS-R or JDM SiR-G. The DC5 era is the other entry point. The USDM Acura RSX Type-S uses the K20A2 at 200 hp, drives well, and trades around $10,000 to $20,000 for tidy examples. JDM DC5 Type R cars are the appreciating play here, sitting at $40,000 to $70,000 for clean low-mile examples.
The Integra to avoid is a cheap modified one with no paperwork. Rust on the rear quarters is the deal breaker that you can't easily price in. If the quarters are bubbling or the rear bumper is sagging, the metal underneath is gone and the repair is welding, not filler. The other thing to walk away from is any Type R with swap evidence, missing seam-welds, or a chassis that's been on a track without the records to prove what's been replaced. A documented, original Integra is worth waiting for. A cheap one almost always ends up costing more than the patient buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Which Integra is the most collectible?
- The DC2/DB8 Type R is top. Next: clean GS-R/SiR and JDM DC5 Type R with documentation.
- What are typical problem areas to inspect?
- Check rust, accident repairs, timing belt history, oil leaks, cooling system, and worn bushings/ball joints.
- Are JDM Type R cars better than USDM?
- JDM DC2R often has spec differences and cachet, but condition matters most. USDM ITR can be easier to own.
- How much does modification hurt value?
- Heavily modified cars usually sell for less. OEM+ with receipts may be acceptable; cut wiring and swaps hurt most.
- What maintenance is non-negotiable?
- Timing belt/water pump, quality oil, valve adjustment, fresh coolant, and addressing suspension wear are essential.
- Is the Integra good for track days?
- Yes—great chassis and low consumable costs. Prioritize brakes, cooling, quality tires, and an LSD if needed.
- What drives Integra prices the most?
- Trim (Type R), originality, rust-free shell, mileage, documentation, and rare OEM parts (Recaros, aero, wheels).
- When is it US-legal to import?
- Under the 25-year rule, eligibility depends on build month/year. For example, 1999 cars become legal in 2024.
Sources & References
- Honda Integra — encyclopedic overview — WikipediaVerified
- Honda Integra Type R — model history and specifications — WikipediaVerified
- Honda B engine family reference — WikipediaVerified
- Honda K engine family reference — WikipediaVerified
- VTEC — Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control — WikipediaVerified
- Honda Civic Type R — sister Type R lineage — WikipediaVerified
- Honda / Acura Integra Type R auction results — Bring a TrailerVerified
- Honda Integra market comps and sale data — Classic.comVerified
- Acura Integra market comps — Classic.comVerified
- Honda Integra owner technical community — Honda-TechVerified
- Honda Integra review archive — CarsGuideVerified
- Spoon Sports — long-time Integra tuner-house — Spoon SportsVerified
- Mugen Motorsports — works tuner — MugenVerified
- Garage Dreams — Integra buyer's-guide reference — Garage DreamsVerified
- The Motorhood — period road-test archive — The MotorhoodVerified
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