Buyer's guide
Honda Integra
The Honda Integra launched in February 1985 as a replacement for the Honda Quint, sold through the Honda Verno dealer network in Japan alongside the Prelude and the second-generation CR-X. The first-generation cars (AV, DA1, DA3) ran D-series and ZC engines and used pop-up headlamps; the second generation (DA5–DA9, DB1–DB2, 1989–1993) introduced double-wishbone suspension at all four corners and gave the model its first DOHC VTEC engine, the 1.6L B16A, in the Si and SiR trims. The third generation (DB6–DB9, DC1–DC2, DC4, 1993–2001) put the Integra on the global motorsport map: in 1995, Honda's Tochigi R&D team built the DC2-chassis Integra Type R around the hand-ported B18C, helical front LSD, seam-welded shell, and stripped curb weight near 1,100 kg. R&D Sport, Spoon Sports, and Mugen Motorsports all turned the DC2 into a touring-car and time-attack reference. The fourth generation (DC5, 2001–2006) replaced the B-series with the all-new K20A i-VTEC and a 6-speed manual; Honda continued the Type R variant only in Japan, while the export market received the Acura RSX (USDM) and Honda Integra Type S (rest of world). When Honda Japan discontinued the Integra in July 2006, it ended a 21-year run that still defines benchmark FWD chassis engineering.
DC2 vs DC5 — what 4 years of VTEC evolution actually changed
The DC2 Type R (1995–2001) and DC5 Type R (2001–2006) bookend the most disciplined era of Japanese FWD engineering. The DC2 used the 1.8L B18C — hand-ported intake and exhaust ports, undercut valve seats, a higher 11.1:1 compression ratio versus the GS-R's B18C1, and a redline at 8,400 rpm (USDM) or 8,500 rpm (JDM) producing 195 hp (USDM B18C5) or 200 ps (JDM B18C). The chassis received seam welding at the spot-weld points where production tolerance left voids, a Torsen-style helical front LSD, four-piston front Brembo calipers (98-spec onward, JDM), 15-inch wheels (USDM) or 16-inch (JDM late), and Recaro front buckets. Curb weight ran 2,639 lb (USDM) or roughly 2,425 lb (JDM stripped). The DC5 Type R rebuilt the platform around the new K20A engine — a chain-driven 2.0L i-VTEC making 220 ps at 8,000 rpm with the redline at 8,600 rpm. Honda added a 6-speed manual (vs the DC2's close-ratio 5-speed), Brembo brakes front and rear, and a stiffer monocoque with significantly higher torsional rigidity than the DC2 shell. The DC5 is faster on a stopwatch and easier to drive at the limit; the DC2 is lighter, more interactive, and carries the analog steering feel that has made clean examples six-figure auction cars. Both cars were JDM-exclusive in Type R form for most of their run — the USDM Acura ITR sold only from 1997 through 2001 (with a one-year gap in 1999), and the USDM Acura RSX never wore the Type R badge.
Why the K20A redefined naturally-aspirated FF performance
The K20A engine that arrived in the 2001 DC5 Integra Type R, the JDM Civic Type R EP3, and later the FD2 Civic Type R was a clean-sheet design — not a B-series evolution. It used a roller-rocker valvetrain, a chain-driven cam (no timing belt service interval), individual-cylinder ignition coils, and dual-stage i-VTEC where the lift and duration both change at the high-cam crossover. Specific output in JDM Type R tune reached 110 ps per litre at 8,000 rpm, with peak torque shifted up into the 7,000 rpm region — the engine breathes hardest where most engines have already given up. Spoon Sports, Mugen, and Toda Racing built dry-sump variants of the K20A that have powered FIA-spec touring cars and time-attack record-holders for two decades; the engine remains the dominant naturally-aspirated FF power plant for amateur road racing because it makes serious power at the top end without forced induction, the bottom end tolerates 9,000+ rpm with valvetrain upgrades, and parts availability is essentially Honda Civic dealership-grade.
Quick read
Key takeaways
- DC2/DB8 Type R is the value leader and most collectible
- Stock, rust-free cars command big premiums vs modified
- B18C/B16A reward maintenance; timing belt is critical
- RHD JDM supply is finite; 25-year rule boosts demand
- Rust/accident history are the biggest price killers
- USDM GS-R is a strong alternative to JDM Type R pricing
Constants
Common across all Integra generations
- Front-engine, front-wheel-drive layout across all generations
- VTEC-equipped B-series (DC2) or K-series i-VTEC (DC5) engines in Type R form
- Type R variants add a helical limited-slip differential and chassis seam-welding
- Available as both coupe and four-door across the model's history
- Right-hand drive available throughout JDM production
Chassis history
Generation timeline
The Integra ran from 1985 until 2006 across four generations, and they really do feel like different cars. The DA cars are the lightweight 80s coupes with pop-up headlights and the first VTEC engine in the JDM Si and SiR trims. The DC2 is the icon, with the Type R that set the FWD handling benchmark. The DC5 swapped the B-series for the K20A and went stiffer, heavier, and faster. The first-gen AV cars are interesting historically but not what most buyers are after.
DC2 Integra Type R (B18C; 1995–2001)
Buyer's call
Should you buy a Honda Integra?
The Integra is a Honda, so you get the usual upside. Cheap parts, easy mechanical work, engines that take a beating, and an aftermarket that can build you anything. The downsides are also Honda problems. Theft, rust on the rear quarters, an interior that didn't age well, and front-wheel drive that some buyers see as a dealbreaker. None of it is a surprise once you've owned one.
Why you'll love it
- Type R benchmark handling DC2/DC5 Type R deliver sharp turn-in, balance, and feedback; still a FWD reference point.
- High-rev VTEC character B16/B18 and K20A reward revs; engaging power delivery with strong motorsport heritage.
- Strong reliability when maintained Engines/drivetrains are durable with proper timing belt, oiling, cooling, and quality parts.
- Huge parts & community support Excellent OEM/aftermarket availability, knowledge base, and tuning solutions worldwide.
- Usable classic performance Practical hatch/sedan packaging, good visibility, and low running costs vs many JDM rivals.
- Collector upside for clean cars Unmodified, documented Type R and GS-R/SiR examples show sustained demand and liquidity.
Why you might not
- Rust is a major value killer Rear quarters, sills, floors, strut towers, and subframes rust; repairs are costly and visible.
- Many are modified or abused Track/drift/stance builds, engine swaps, and poor wiring reduce value and reliability.
- Theft risk and insurance issues High theft rates for Type R/GS-R parts; consider immobilizers, trackers, and secure storage.
- Aging interior & trim scarcity OEM Recaros, dash plastics, weatherstrips, and Type R-specific bits can be expensive to source.
- Import compliance complexity RHD/JDM imports need careful paperwork, emissions/state rules, and parts compatibility checks.
- FWD limits vs RWD rivals Torque steer and traction limits appear with power mods; big builds need LSD and chassis work.
Who should not buy this
- Anyone needing modern crash safety and airbags
- Buyers who can't tolerate 25+ year old car issues
- People without a trusted Honda/JDM specialist shop
- Drivers who need quiet cabin and zero rattles
- Those who require perfect A/C in hot climates
- Owners who can't budget $1k-3k for surprise repairs
- People who must pass strict emissions inspections
- California residents if engine swap/cat not compliant
- Anyone who won't do frequent fluid maintenance
- Buyers who hate stiff ride on Type R/coilovers
- Tall drivers over 6'2" wanting helmet clearance
- Families needing real rear seats and easy child seats
- People who park outside in rust/salt environments
- Anyone expecting theft-proof ownership without effort
- Buyers who want stock, unmodified examples cheaply
- Those unwilling to walk from poorly done mods/swaps
- People who need automatic-only convenience
- Owners who can't store it securely (high theft risk)
- Anyone expecting cheap OEM parts for rare JDM trims
- Drivers who won't accept premium fuel requirements
Reliability
Common issues & solutions
The Integra is a tough car mechanically. Most of what goes wrong on one is age, not design. The rear quarter panels rust. The taillight gaskets leak and the trunk gets wet. The door locks and other electronics get flaky. Oil seeps from the valve cover gasket and the cam seals. The B and K series engines themselves rarely cause trouble if the timing belt or chain has been kept on top of.
| Issue | Cause | Solution | Est. cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2nd/3rd gear synchro grind | Worn synchros from hard shifting/old fluid | Rebuild trans w/synchros; use correct MTF | $1200-3000 |
| Manual trans input bearing whine | Bearing wear, low/dirty fluid, high mileage | Transmission rebuild; replace bearings/seals | $1500-3500 |
| Clutch slip or chatter | Worn disc/pressure plate; oil contamination | Replace clutch kit; resurface flywheel; fix leaks | $700-1600 |
| Rear main seal oil leak | Aged seal; crankcase pressure; high mileage | Replace rear main seal during clutch service | $600-1400 |
| VTEC solenoid gasket leak | Hardened gasket and screen clogging | Replace gasket/screen; clean; verify oil pressure | $80-250 |
| Cam seal/cap oil leak | Aged seals; poor prior service; crankcase pressure | Replace cam seals/cap seal; reseal as needed | $200-600 |
| Oil pan seep/leak | Old RTV, pan dents, over-torqued bolts | Reseal pan; straighten/replace if dented | $200-500 |
| Blue smoke on decel | Valve stem seals worn from age/heat | Replace valve seals; inspect guides; valve job if needed | $900-2200 |
| Blue smoke on accel | Worn rings/cylinder wear; poor maintenance | Engine rebuild or replacement long block | $2500-7000 |
| Idle hunting/surging | Dirty IACV/FITV, vacuum leaks, TB carbon | Clean/repair IACV/FITV; smoke test; base idle set | $150-600 |
| Random misfire at idle | Bad plugs/wires/coil, valve lash, grounds | Tune-up; adjust valves; repair grounds/wiring | $150-800 |
| Valve lash noise/tick | Valves out of adjustment; neglected service | Adjust valve lash; inspect cam lobes | $200-500 |
| Timing belt overdue (B-series) | Skipped service interval; unknown history | Replace belt, tensioner, water pump, seals | $600-1200 |
| Timing chain/tensioner wear | K-series tensioner wear; low oil; high miles | Replace chain/tensioner/guides; inspect VTC gear | $900-2200 |
| Overheating in traffic | Bad fan switch/relay, clogged rad, stuck thermostat | Diagnose fans; replace radiator/thermostat as needed | $250-900 |
| Radiator end tank crack | Aged plastic tanks; heat cycling | Replace radiator and cap; bleed system properly | $250-650 |
| Head gasket failure | Prior overheating; detonation; poor tune | Head gasket job; check head flatness; new bolts | $1200-2800 |
| Heater core leak | Corrosion/age; coolant neglect | Replace heater core; flush system; new hoses | $800-1600 |
| Power steering pump whine | Old fluid, pump wear, suction leak at O-ring | Replace O-ring; flush; rebuild/replace pump | $80-600 |
| Steering rack leak/play | Worn seals/bushings; torn boots; age | Replace/reseal rack; align; replace tie rods | $700-1600 |
| Front LCA bushing failure | Aged rubber; lowered cars stress bushings | Replace bushings or arms; align afterward | $300-900 |
| Ball joint wear/failure | Age, torn boots, lowered suspension angles | Replace ball joints/arms immediately; safety item | $250-800 |
| Wheel bearing hum | Bearing wear; track use; impacts | Replace hub/bearing; check knuckle condition | $300-900 |
| CV axle vibration/click | Worn joints; torn boots; cheap reman axles | Use quality axles; replace seals; torque axle nut | $250-700 |
| Brake caliper slider seize | Lack of grease; torn boots; corrosion | Rebuild/replace calipers; new hardware; flush fluid | $250-800 |
| Rusty brake hard lines | Road salt; aged coatings; neglected underbody | Replace lines; inspect hoses; full bleed | $400-1200 |
| ABS sensor/wiring faults | Broken sensor wires; rust at tone rings | Repair wiring; replace sensors; clean tone rings | $200-900 |
| Hatch/trunk water leaks | Bad seals, tail light gaskets, clogged drains | Replace seals/gaskets; clear drains; reseal seams | $100-600 |
| Sunroof drain overflow | Clogged drains; cracked drain tubes | Clear/replace drains; dry interior; treat mold | $100-500 |
| Floor/spare well rust | Chronic water intrusion; salt exposure | Cut/patch weld; treat rust; fix leak source | $500-2500 |
| Rear quarter/arch rust | Trapped debris in arch lip; poor prior repairs | Proper metal repair; avoid filler-only fixes | $800-4000 |
| Cracked dash/rattles | UV exposure; age; prior interior removal | Dash cap/replace; add clips/foam for rattles | $150-1200 |
| Window regulator failure | Worn cables/plastic guides; dry tracks | Replace regulator; lube tracks; check switches | $200-500 |
| Door lock actuator weak | Motor wear; sticky linkages; low voltage | Replace actuator; service linkage; verify grounds | $150-450 |
| Alternator weak/charging drop | Worn brushes/diodes; heat; oil contamination | Replace alternator; fix oil leaks; belt tension | $250-650 |
| Aftermarket wiring gremlins | Alarm/audio hacks; poor grounds; twisted splices | Remove hacks; re-pin/repair harness; add grounds | $200-1500 |
| Engine swap integration issues | Wrong ECU/harness; sensor mismatch; bad mounts | Correct ECU/harness; proper mounts; professional tune | $500-4000 |
| Catalyst missing/clogged | Stolen cat; cheap exhaust; rich tune melts cat | Install correct cat; fix fueling; new O2 sensors | $300-1800 |
| O2 sensor slow response | Aged sensor; exhaust leaks; wiring damage | Fix leaks; replace O2; verify fuel trims | $150-450 |
| Fuel pump whining/failure | Old pump; clogged sock; running low on fuel often | Replace pump/filter; clean tank if contaminated | $250-700 |
| Fuel smell/leaking lines | Aged rubber lines; cracked filler neck hoses | Replace hoses/clamps; inspect hard lines | $150-600 |
| Engine mounts torn | Age; aggressive driving; stiff aftermarket mounts | Replace mounts; avoid ultra-stiff street setups | $250-900 |
| Exhaust manifold crack/leak | Heat cycling; thin aftermarket headers | Weld/replace manifold; new gaskets; check studs | $200-900 |
| A/C weak or inop | Leaks at seals; compressor wear; condenser damage | Leak test; replace failed parts; evacuate/recharge | $300-1500 |
Market
Differences between JDM & USDM
The Honda Integra (JDM) and Acura Integra (USDM/Canada/Mexico) share the same chassis codes and core hardware, but the Type R lineage diverged significantly. In Japan, the Integra Type R was a continuous JDM offering from August 1995 (DC2 96-spec) through July 2006 (DC5 final-run). In the United States, the Acura Integra Type R was sold only across 1997, 1998, 2000, and 2001 — Honda paused USDM production in 1999. The USDM B18C5 (Type R) is mechanically nearly identical to the JDM B18C (Type R) — both hand-ported, both helical LSD — but the JDM car has slightly more aggressive cams, a higher redline (8,500 vs 8,400 rpm), the 4-piston front Brembo in 98-spec form, and quieter exhaust tuning to suit Japanese noise regulations. The DC5 split was sharper: Japan got the K20A-powered DC5 Integra Type R with 220 ps, while the United States received only the Acura RSX (DC5 chassis) with the K20A2 in Type-S form (200 hp) — there was no USDM Acura RSX Type R. The DC5 generation never sold in the United States under either the Honda or Acura Integra name. RHD applies to all JDM Integras; LHD applies to all USDM and Canadian Acura Integras.
DC2 vs DC5 Integra Type R comparison
Specs
Technical specifications
Every Integra is front-wheel drive. The AV cars run the 1.5 EW5 or 1.6 ZC. The DA and DC2 era cars get the B-series, with the B16A and B18C being the engines you actually want. The B18C in Type R tune makes 200 ps. The DC5 switched to the K20A i-VTEC, which makes 220 ps in JDM Type R spec. The 5-speed manual is the gearbox on the B-series cars and the DC5 Type R got a 6-speed.
Engine options
| Chassis | Engine | Displacement | Power | Boost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DA (USDM 1986-1989) | D16A1 | 1.6L | 118hp @ 5800rpm (estimated) | N/A | DOHC 16V; US figures vary by year |
| DA (JDM late 1980s) | ZC | 1.6L | 130ps @ 6800rpm (estimated) | N/A | DOHC ZC; output varies by market/year |
| DA6/DA8 (JDM) | B16A | 1.6L | 160ps @ 7600rpm (estimated) | N/A | DOHC VTEC; early B16A spec varies |
| DB1/DB2/DC1 (USDM 1990-1993) | B18A1 | 1.8L | 130hp @ 6000rpm (estimated) | N/A | DOHC non-VTEC; OBD0/OBD1 transition |
| DB2 (USDM 1992-1993) | B17A1 | 1.7L | 160hp @ 7600rpm (estimated) | N/A | DOHC VTEC; US first VTEC engine |
| DC4/DC1 (USDM 1994-2001) | B18B1 | 1.8L | 142hp @ 6300rpm (estimated) | N/A | DOHC non-VTEC; common LS/RS/GS |
| DC2 (USDM 1994-2001 GS-R) | B18C1 | 1.8L | 170hp @ 7600rpm (estimated) | N/A | DOHC VTEC; 4-2-1 header (varies) |
| DC2 (USDM 1997-2001 Type R) | B18C5 | 1.8L | 195hp @ 8000rpm (estimated) | N/A | Hand-ported head, 8400rpm redline |
| DC2 (JDM Type R '96-spec) | B18C | 1.8L | 200ps @ 8000rpm (estimated) | N/A | JDM Type R; helical LSD; high compression |
| DC2 (JDM Type R '98-spec) | B18C | 1.8L | 200ps @ 8000rpm (estimated) | N/A | 98-spec updates; ECU/intake/exhaust revisions |
| DC2 (JDM SiR/SiR-G) | B18C | 1.8L | 180ps @ 7600rpm (estimated) | N/A | Non-Type R B18C; output varies by year |
| DC5 (USDM base RSX) | K20A3 | 2.0L | 160hp @ 6500rpm (estimated) | N/A | i-VTEC economy cam; 5MT/5AT |
| DC5 (USDM RSX Type-S) | K20A2 | 2.0L | 200hp @ 7400rpm (estimated) | N/A | i-VTEC performance; 6MT; 7900rpm redline |
| DC5 (JDM Integra Type R) | K20A | 2.0L | 220ps @ 8000rpm (estimated) | N/A | JDM Type R; high-lift cams; LSD; 8600rpm |
| DE5 (JDM Integra Type R) | K20A | 2.0L | 220ps @ 8000rpm (estimated) | N/A | FD2-based; LSD; Brembo; Recaro |
Transmission options
| Type | Ratios | Availability | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5-speed Manual | varies by engine/market | Most trims (1985-2006) | Cable/hydraulic by era; close ratios on sport |
| 4-speed Automatic | varies by engine/market | Many non-Type R trims | Hydraulic/ECT by era; not on most Type R |
| 6-speed Manual | varies by model | DC5/DE5 Type S/Type R | Close ratio; LSD on Type R |
| 5-speed Automatic | varies by model | DC5 base/iS, some JDM iS | SportShift on some markets |
Lineup
Variants & trims
The trim that matters most on the Integra is Type R. The JDM DC2 Type R got the hand-ported B18C, a helical LSD, a seam-welded shell, and a curb weight near 1,100 kg. The USDM Acura Integra Type R is similar but the JDM car got more aggressive cams, higher compression, and a 200 ps rating versus 195 hp on the Acura. The non-Type R SiR, GS-R, and Si-VTEC trims share the same chassis and most of the suspension hardware, which is why they're the value play.
| Generation | Trim | Engine | Key features |
|---|---|---|---|
| DA (2nd gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra XSi (JDM) | ZC 1.6 DOHC | DOHC ZC, sport suspension, 4W disc (varies) |
| DA (2nd gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra Si (JDM) | B16A 1.6 DOHC VTEC | VTEC, close-ratio 5MT, 4W disc, sport seats |
| DA (2nd gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra Si-VTEC (JDM) | B16A 1.6 DOHC VTEC | VTEC, 5MT, 4W disc, sport aero (varies) |
| DA (2nd gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra ZXi (JDM) | D16A 1.6 SOHC | SOHC 1.6, comfort trim, 4AT available |
| DA (2nd gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra RXi (JDM) | B18A/B 1.8 DOHC | 1.8 DOHC, higher torque, 5MT/4AT |
| DA (2nd gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM, DA8/DA6-based) | B16A 1.6 DOHC VTEC | Type R tune, LSD (varies), weight reduction, Recaro |
| DA (USDM 1986-1989) | Integra RS (USDM) | D16A1 1.6 DOHC | DOHC 1.6, 5MT/4AT, pop-up lamps |
| DA (USDM 1986-1989) | Integra LS (USDM) | D16A1 1.6 DOHC | DOHC 1.6, more equipment, 5MT/4AT |
| DA (USDM 1986-1989) | Integra GS (USDM) | D16A1 1.6 DOHC | DOHC 1.6, premium interior, 5MT/4AT |
| DA (USDM 1986-1989) | Integra GS-R (USDM) | D16A1 1.6 DOHC | DOHC 1.6, sport suspension, 4W disc (varies) |
| DB/DC (3rd gen JDM/EDM, 2nd gen USDM) | Integra Xi (JDM) | D15B/D16A SOHC | SOHC economy, 4AT available, comfort options |
| DB/DC (3rd gen JDM/EDM, 2nd gen USDM) | Integra SiR (JDM) | B16A 1.6 DOHC VTEC | VTEC, 5MT, 4W disc, sport suspension |
| DB/DC (3rd gen JDM/EDM, 2nd gen USDM) | Integra SiR-G (JDM) | B18C 1.8 DOHC VTEC | B18C, 5MT, LSD (some), higher redline |
| DB/DC (3rd gen JDM/EDM, 2nd gen USDM) | Integra ZXi (JDM) | D16A 1.6 SOHC | SOHC 1.6, 4AT available, comfort trim |
| DB/DC (3rd gen JDM/EDM, 2nd gen USDM) | Integra RXi (JDM) | B18B 1.8 DOHC | 1.8 DOHC, torque-focused, 5MT/4AT |
| DB/DC (3rd gen JDM/EDM, 2nd gen USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC2) | B18C 1.8 DOHC VTEC | Type R, helical LSD, seam welds, Brembo (varies) |
| DB/DC (USDM 1990-1993) | Integra RS (USDM) | B18A1 1.8 DOHC | 1.8 DOHC, 5MT/4AT, base equipment |
| DB/DC (USDM 1990-1993) | Integra LS (USDM) | B18A1 1.8 DOHC | 1.8 DOHC, 5MT/4AT, cruise (varies) |
| DB/DC (USDM 1990-1993) | Integra GS (USDM) | B18A1 1.8 DOHC | 1.8 DOHC, more equipment, 5MT/4AT |
| DB/DC (USDM 1990-1993) | Integra GS-R (USDM) | B17A1 1.7 DOHC VTEC | VTEC, 5MT, 4W disc, sport suspension |
| DC2/DC4 (4th gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra SJ (JDM sedan) | D15B/D16A SOHC | Sedan, SOHC economy, 4AT available |
| DC2/DC4 (4th gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra SiR (JDM) | B18C 1.8 DOHC VTEC | B18C, 5MT, sport suspension, 4W disc |
| DC2/DC4 (4th gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra SiR-G (JDM) | B18C 1.8 DOHC VTEC | B18C, 5MT, higher spec interior, LSD (some) |
| DC2/DC4 (4th gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC2 '96-spec) | B18C 1.8 DOHC VTEC | Type R, helical LSD, seam welds, 5MT |
| DC2/DC4 (4th gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC2 '98-spec) | B18C 1.8 DOHC VTEC | 98-spec, improved brakes, revised aero, helical LSD |
| DC2/DC4 (4th gen JDM/EDM, 3rd gen USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC2 '00-spec) | B18C 1.8 DOHC VTEC | 00-spec, final updates, helical LSD, 5MT |
| DC2/DC4 (USDM 1994-2001) | Integra RS (USDM) | B18B1 1.8 DOHC | 1.8 DOHC, 5MT/4AT, base trim |
| DC2/DC4 (USDM 1994-2001) | Integra LS (USDM) | B18B1 1.8 DOHC | 1.8 DOHC, 5MT/4AT, more equipment |
| DC2/DC4 (USDM 1994-2001) | Integra GS (USDM) | B18B1 1.8 DOHC | 1.8 DOHC, premium equipment, 5MT/4AT |
| DC2/DC4 (USDM 1994-2001) | Integra GS-R (USDM) | B18C1 1.8 DOHC VTEC | VTEC, 5MT/4AT, 4W disc, sport suspension |
| DC2/DC4 (USDM 1997-2001) | Integra Type R (USDM) | B18C5 1.8 DOHC VTEC | Type R, helical LSD, seam welds, close 5MT |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra iS (JDM/EDM) | K20A3/K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | i-VTEC, 5MT/5AT, comfort sport mix |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type S (USDM Acura RSX Type-S) | K20A2 2.0 i-VTEC | 200hp class, 6MT, sport suspension, 4W disc |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC5) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | Type R, LSD, Brembo, Recaro, close 6MT |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC5 '05+) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | facelift, revised ECU, LSD, Brembo, 6MT |
| DE4/DE5 (6th gen JDM) | Integra iS (JDM) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | i-VTEC, 5AT, comfort trim, 4W disc |
| DE4/DE5 (6th gen JDM) | Integra Type S (JDM) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | sport tune, 6MT, aero, larger brakes |
| DE4/DE5 (6th gen JDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DE5) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | Type R, LSD, Brembo, Recaro, 6MT |
Pricing
Average prices & original MSRP
The Acura Integra launched in the US at $11,280 in 1986 for the RS three-door, and the 1997 Acura Integra Type R landed at $23,800. The numbers below are what one costs today. Clean DC2 Type R cars have crossed $80,000 to $100,000 at auction since 2021, and the USDM Phoenix Yellow and Championship White ITRs routinely break $60,000. The non-Type R GS-R and SiR cars are where you find a real Integra without paying Type R money.
Original MSRP: $11,280 at launch in 1986. USDM Acura Integra RS three-door launch price for the 1986 model year (source: Wikipedia Acura Integra entry; period MotorTrend). 1997 USDM Acura Integra Type R launched at $23,800. JDM launch pricing was set in yen and varied by trim; the USDM dollar figure is the most-cited launch benchmark.
Today's market range: $6,000 to $95,000 (median ~$28,000). Source: JDMBuySell / USS Auction.
Type R prices remain firm; best cars trade at a premium while modified/rusty examples lag. Demand is supported by nostalgia, limited clean supply, and ongoing 25-year import eligibility; expect steady appreciation for documented, stock DC2/DC5R.
Inspect
Pre-purchase inspection checklist
Walk this list with the seller, not in front of them. The Critical items mean walking away if there's no paperwork backing them up. The High items can usually be priced into the deal. On any Integra, the rust check on the rear quarters and the timing belt history on the B-series matter more than anything else. Type R cars need an extra pass for swap evidence, since an engine swap on a Type R is a value killer.
Critical priority
- VIN/Chassis ID Verify VIN tags match; check for tampering
- Import/Title Status Confirm legal import/title; no salvage branding
- Accident Structure Check apron rails for wrinkles/uneven seams
- Frame Rails Inspect rails for kinks, rust, crushed jack points
- Roof/A-Pillars Check for ripples; signs of rollover repair
- Underbody Rust Probe floor seams; look for flaking scale
- Engine Cold Start Start cold; listen for knock, valvetrain tick
- Oil Condition Check level/color; fuel smell or glitter is bad
- Cooling System Check rad end tanks, hoses; pressure test if possible
- Overheat History Check for warped head signs: bubbles, pressurizing
- Compression Test Verify even compression across cylinders
- Leakdown Test Confirm ring/valve health; listen at intake/exhaust
- Timing Belt Service B-series: verify belt/water pump date & receipts
- Exhaust Smoke Blue smoke on decel = seals; accel = rings
- Transmission Syncros 2nd/3rd grind on fast shifts; test hot and cold
- Ball Joints Check for play; torn boots; safety-critical
- Brake Lines Inspect hard lines for rust; flex lines for cracks
- Engine Mods Quality Check tune, injectors, fuel pump, wiring, sensors
- Turbo/Supercharger Check oil feed/return, smoke, boost creep, tune
- Swap Legitimacy Verify engine code/ECU/harness; emissions legality
High priority
- Front Core Support Look for non-OE welds, bent rad support
- Rear Quarter Panels Check for filler, waviness, overspray at edges
- Rear Wheel Arches Check inner lip rust; bubbling under paint
- Rocker Panels Inspect pinch welds; rust, crushed from jacks
- Spare Tire Well Lift carpet; check for water, rust, repairs
- Oil Leaks Inspect VTEC solenoid, cam seals, oil pan, rear main
- Coolant Quality Look for oil film/rust; confirm proper Honda coolant
- Timing Chain Noise K-series: listen for chain rattle; check tensioner
- Idle Quality Watch for hunting idle; IACV/FITV/throttle issues
- VTEC Engagement Confirm VTEC hits clean; no CEL or limp mode
- Fuel System Check fuel smell; inspect lines, filter, pump noise
- Fuel Tank Rust Older cars: inspect tank straps and filler neck
- Radiator Fans Confirm both fans cycle; check relays/switch
- Heater Operation Check heat output; sweet smell = heater core leak
- Clutch/Engagement Check slip in 3rd/4th; high bite point
- Axles/CV Joints Check torn boots; clicking on full lock
- Wheel Bearings Listen for hum; check play at 12/6 o'clock
- Suspension Bushings Inspect compliance/LCAs; cracked rubber, clunks
- Tie Rods Check inner/outer play; steering wander
- Steering Rack Look for leaks; feel for dead spot or binding
- Brake Calipers Check seized sliders; uneven pad wear
- Brake Pedal Feel Spongy pedal = air/leaks; hard pedal = booster
- ECU/OBD Codes Scan for codes; check readiness monitors if OBD2
- Wiring Hacks Look for splices for alarm/audio/engine swap
- SRS/Airbags SRS light on = expensive; check crash sensor wiring
- Interior Water Leaks Check wet carpets; musty smell; under-seat rust
- Pedal Box/Firewall Check clutch pedal bracket cracks; squeaks
- Test Drive Heat Soak Drive 20+ min; watch temp, idle, hot restart
- Catalyst Status Confirm cat present; no rattles; emissions risk
- Service Records Look for timing service, valve adj, fluid intervals
Medium priority
- Windshield Cowl Check for leaks; rust at cowl corners
- Door Bottoms Inspect drain holes; rust and swelling seams
- Hatch/Trunk Seals Check seal tears; water trails in cargo area
- Sunroof Drains Pour water; confirm drains flow, no headliner stains
- Paint Consistency Check panel gaps; mismatched orange peel/texture
- Vacuum Leaks Check cracked hoses; brake booster hiss
- Engine Mounts Check for excessive movement; torn mounts
- PCV System Check PCV valve; excessive crankcase pressure
- Hydraulic Clutch Inspect master/slave leaks; spongy pedal
- LSD Function Type R/SiR: tight turns; listen for chatter/lock
- Power Steering Pump Listen for whine; check fluid condition and leaks
- ABS System Confirm ABS light off; test on gravel if safe
- Wheels/Tires Check bent wheels; uneven wear indicates alignment
- Alignment/Tracking Road test: pull, steering off-center, tramlining
- Charging System Check alternator output; dim lights at idle
- Ground Straps Inspect engine/chassis grounds; random misfires
- HVAC Controls Test all modes; blend door issues on older cars
- A/C Performance Check vent temp; compressor noise; leaks at lines
- Window Regulators Slow/stuck windows; listen for cable crunch
- Seat Rails Check wobble; broken rails from track use
- Braking Vibration Check for rotor warp; suspension play can mimic
- Clunk Over Bumps Listen for endlinks, top hats, bushings, mounts
- Wheel Hop Hard accel: check mounts, bushings, axles
- Exhaust Leaks Check manifold cracks, donut gasket, flex pipe
- O2 Sensors Check fuel trims; lazy O2 causes poor MPG
- Keys/Immobilizer Confirm all keys; immobilizer issues on newer DC5
Low priority
- Headlights/Taillights Check for condensation; broken tabs, poor fit
- Battery/Terminals Check corrosion; undersized battery causes issues
- Gauges/Cluster Confirm tach/speedo work; check backlight flicker
- Door Locks Test actuators; key cylinder wear and sticking
- Seat Bolsters Heavy wear suggests high mileage or track use
Cross-shop
Comparable alternatives
If the Integra doesn't end up being the right car, the natural alternatives are the Honda Civic EK9 Type R if you want the hot hatch version of the same idea, or the Acura RSX Type-S if you want a DC5 chassis car at a fraction of JDM Type R money. The Acura Integra Type R is the same DC2 with US specs and easier paperwork. The Nissan Silvia S15 is the obvious sideways step if front-wheel drive is the dealbreaker.
Acura Integra Type R
USDM DC2R; LHD, easier parts; still pricey
Honda Civic EK9 Type R
Similar B16 VTEC feel; lighter; prices often higher
Acura RSX Type-S
K20 power, modern chassis; cheaper than JDM DC5R
Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205
Turbo AWD pace; more complex but strong JDM appeal
Nissan Silvia S15 Spec R
RWD turbo alternative; higher running costs, strong demand
Compare
How it compares
The Integra sits in an odd spot. It's faster than most hot hatches, lighter than the sports cars in its price bracket, and front-wheel drive in a segment that's mostly rear-wheel drive. The table below leans toward the Integra's strengths because that's where it actually wins, on chassis discipline, parts availability, and the way a stock Type R drives versus anything else with two driven wheels.
| Feature | Honda Integra | Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T | Toyota Supra JZA80 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Layout/Drive | FWD, I4 NA | RWD, I6 TT | RWD, I6 NA/TT |
| Icon trim | DC2/DB8 Type R | FD3S Type R/RS | Evo IV-VI GSR/RS |
| Power (stock) | DC2R ~197hp (JDM) | FD3S ~255hp (JDM) | Evo V ~276hp (JDM) |
| Weight (approx) | DC2R ~2,350 lb | FD3S ~2,800 lb | Evo V ~3,000 lb |
| Handling feel | Light, precise, playful | Balanced, RWD, boosty | AWD grip, heavier nose |
| Engine family | B-series / K-series | 13B-REW rotary | SR20DET turbo I4 |
| Reliability baseline | High if maintained | Higher upkeep (rotary) | Good; turbo adds heat |
| Running costs | Low-moderate | Moderate-high | Moderate-high |
| Tuning headroom | NA gains modest; swaps | Big gains w/ boost | Big gains w/ boost |
| Collector demand | Very strong (Type R) | Strong (clean turbo cars) | Strong (halo model) |
| Practicality | Hatch/sedan, usable | Coupe, tight rear | 2+2, larger footprint |
| USDM counterpart | Integra GS-R / Type R | Civic Si/SiR | RSX Type-S |
| Track-day value | Excellent consumables | Higher tire/brake costs | Higher tire/brake costs |
Gallery
In pictures
Drivetrain
Engine references
Editorial
The buyer's read
If you're buying an Integra, the question is whether you want a Type R or you want an Integra. They're different conversations. A clean, documented DC2 Type R is the icon of the model and the values reflect that. Expect $60,000 plus for a USDM ITR in original paint, and $80,000 to $100,000 plus for a JDM 98-spec or 00-spec car. Modifications kill value harder on the Type R than anywhere else in the Honda range, so the cars worth chasing are unmolested with seam-welds intact, no swap, and a full timing belt history.
If you don't need the Type R badge, the GS-R and SiR cars are the value play. Same chassis, most of the suspension hardware, and the B18C in non-Type R tune still makes 170 to 180 hp. Budget around $10,000 to $20,000 for a clean DC2 GS-R or JDM SiR-G. The DC5 era is the other entry point. The USDM Acura RSX Type-S uses the K20A2 at 200 hp, drives well, and trades around $10,000 to $20,000 for tidy examples. JDM DC5 Type R cars are the appreciating play here, sitting at $40,000 to $70,000 for clean low-mile examples.
The Integra to avoid is a cheap modified one with no paperwork. Rust on the rear quarters is the deal breaker that you can't easily price in. If the quarters are bubbling or the rear bumper is sagging, the metal underneath is gone and the repair is welding, not filler. The other thing to walk away from is any Type R with swap evidence, missing seam-welds, or a chassis that's been on a track without the records to prove what's been replaced. A documented, original Integra is worth waiting for. A cheap one almost always ends up costing more than the patient buy.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions
- Which Integra is the most collectible?
- The DC2/DB8 Type R is top. Next: clean GS-R/SiR and JDM DC5 Type R with documentation.
- What are typical problem areas to inspect?
- Check rust, accident repairs, timing belt history, oil leaks, cooling system, and worn bushings/ball joints.
- Are JDM Type R cars better than USDM?
- JDM DC2R often has spec differences and cachet, but condition matters most. USDM ITR can be easier to own.
- How much does modification hurt value?
- Heavily modified cars usually sell for less. OEM+ with receipts may be acceptable; cut wiring and swaps hurt most.
- What maintenance is non-negotiable?
- Timing belt/water pump, quality oil, valve adjustment, fresh coolant, and addressing suspension wear are essential.
- Is the Integra good for track days?
- Yes—great chassis and low consumable costs. Prioritize brakes, cooling, quality tires, and an LSD if needed.
- What drives Integra prices the most?
- Trim (Type R), originality, rust-free shell, mileage, documentation, and rare OEM parts (Recaros, aero, wheels).
- When is it US-legal to import?
- Under the 25-year rule, eligibility depends on build month/year. For example, 1999 cars become legal in 2024.
Citations
Sources & references
- Honda Integra — encyclopedic overview — WikipediaVerified
- Honda Integra Type R — model history and specifications — WikipediaVerified
- Honda B engine family reference — WikipediaVerified
- Honda K engine family reference — WikipediaVerified
- VTEC — Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control — WikipediaVerified
- Honda Civic Type R — sister Type R lineage — WikipediaVerified
- Honda / Acura Integra Type R auction results — Bring a TrailerVerified
- Honda Integra market comps and sale data — Classic.comVerified
- Acura Integra market comps — Classic.comVerified
- Honda Integra owner technical community — Honda-TechVerified
- Honda Integra review archive — CarsGuideVerified
- Spoon Sports — long-time Integra tuner-house — Spoon SportsVerified
- Mugen Motorsports — works tuner — MugenVerified
- Garage Dreams — Integra buyer's-guide reference — Garage DreamsVerified
- The Motorhood — period road-test archive — The MotorhoodVerified
Sources last verified: