2G is the value sweet spot for many DSM buyers today: more refined cabin than the 1G, better road manners, and the same 4G63T core. The 1996-1999 cars are also the generation most associated with 'crankwalk' — thrust-bearing wear on the crankshaft caused by clutch-load and oiling-system interactions. The fix is a full bottom-end rebuild; buyers commonly check crank endplay before purchase. The 2G also carried a transfer-case recall on AWD cars that should be verified at point of sale.
Buyer's guide
Mitsubishi Eclipse D32A — Buyer's Guide & Specs
The second-generation Eclipse (D32A, 1995-1999) carried the DSM formula forward with smoother bodywork, a 1997 mid-cycle update, and the introduction of the Spyder convertible from 1996. The trim structure mirrored the 1G — RS / GS / GS-T / GSX on the coupe, with Spyder GS and rare Spyder GS-T variants on the convertible. The 420A 2.0-liter (a Chrysler-sourced naturally-aspirated engine) replaced the 4G63 NA on lower trims; the 4G63T turbo continued on GS-T (FWD) and GSX (AWD).
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Key Takeaways
The Eclipse had four generations from 1990 until 2012, and they split cleanly in half. The 1G and 2G are the DSM cars that everyone means when they say Eclipse. Turbo, 4G63T, AWD on the GSX. The 3G and 4G dropped all of that and went front drive only with a V6. If you're shopping for an Eclipse, the first thing to figure out is which half of the timeline you actually want.
- 1990–1999 turbo DSMs lead demand and pricing.
- Stock, documented cars beat big-power builds at resale.
- Rust + timing belt neglect are the biggest deal-breakers.
- GSX/TSi AWD commands the strongest premiums.
- 2000–2012 are budget buys, weaker collector upside.
- Parts support is good, but clean shells are scarce.
Should You Buy a Mitsubishi Eclipse D32A?
The Eclipse is a car where the good and the bad are tied to which generation you pick. The 1G and 2G turbo cars give you a tuning ceiling that rivals the Lancer Evo on stock internals, and the 3G and 4G give you a cheap coupe with a V6. The downsides change generation to generation too, so look at the pros and cons against the trim you're actually considering.
Why You'll Love It
- Iconic turbo DSM performance 1G/2G 4G63T cars deliver big power potential with strong community knowledge.
- AWD traction (GSX/TSi AWD) Factory AWD turbo trims are standout rivals to WRX/Supra-era grip in bad weather.
- Strong parts & aftermarket Huge catalog for 4G63T, suspension, brakes; many solutions are well-documented.
- Value entry to 90s tuner era Non-turbo and later gens offer cheap coupe fun; turbo cars still under some peers.
- Distinct styling across eras 2G curves and 1G pop-ups are era-defining; clean examples photograph well at auction.
- Manuals and rare trims add upside Unmodified 5-speeds, GSX/TSi AWD, and special editions attract the strongest bids.
Why You Might Not
- Most cars are modified or abused Tuning culture means many have unknown builds, cut wiring, and inconsistent maintenance.
- Rust is a major value killer Rear quarters, rockers, strut towers, and underbody corrosion can exceed car value.
- Timing belt service is critical Neglect on 4G63/6G72 can cause catastrophic damage; records matter at purchase.
- DSM drivetrain wear at high power Clutches, transfer cases, diffs, and axles suffer on big-boost setups without upgrades.
- Interior aging and trim scarcity Dash cracks, sagging headliners, and NLA plastics make restorations time-consuming.
- Later gens lack collector pull 3G/4G are less sought-after; resale depends more on condition than rarity or spec.
Who Should NOT Buy This
- Anyone needing reliable daily transport with no downtime
- Buyers who can't wrench or pay a specialist
- People who hate chasing vacuum/boost leaks
- Anyone expecting modern crash safety and airbags
- Drivers over 6'2" wanting helmet/headroom
- People who need usable rear seats for adults
- Anyone in strict emissions states with modified cars
- Buyers who won't budget $2k-5k for catch-up maintenance
- Anyone considering a heavily modded, untuned example
- People who need quiet cabin and low NVH
- Owners without a dry garage (rust and leaks get worse)
- Anyone who won't do timing belt on schedule (1G/2G)
- AWD buyers unwilling to service diffs/transfer case often
- People who expect cheap OEM parts availability forever
- Anyone who can't walk away from a 'good deal' project
Common Issues & Solutions
The Eclipse has a reputation for problems that's mostly fair. Three things cause most of the trouble on the turbo cars. The timing belt service gets skipped and the engine eats itself. The ECU capacitors leak on aging boards and cause running issues that look like a hundred other things. The crank thrust bearing wears on some 1996 to 1999 4G63 cars, which DSM owners call crankwalk. None of these are deal breakers if the paperwork shows the work was done.
| Issue | Cause | Solution | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Timing belt failure (1G/2G) | Overdue belt, bad tensioner/idlers | Full belt kit + water pump; set timing correctly | $900-1800 |
| ECU capacitor leakage (1G/2G) | Aging electrolytic caps leak onto PCB | ECU rebuild/replace; repair traces; clean harness | $250-900 |
| Crankwalk (some 2G 4G63) | Thrust bearing wear; clutch load/oiling issues | Measure endplay; rebuild/replace engine if out | $2500-7000 |
| Turbo smoking/failed seals | Worn CHRA, coked oil, high crankcase pressure | Rebuild/replace turbo; fix PCV/venting; new lines | $900-2500 |
| Boost leaks/low power (turbo) | Cracked couplers, TB seals, IC end tank leaks | Boost leak test; replace couplers/seals; clamp right | $100-600 |
| Idle surge/hunting (1G/2G) | Vac leaks, dirty TB, bad IAC, FIAV issues | Smoke test; clean TB; replace IAC; block FIAV if needed | $150-700 |
| Overheating in traffic | Aging radiator, dead fans, air pockets, clogged fins | New radiator/thermostat; verify fans; proper bleed | $300-900 |
| Head gasket failure | Overheat, detonation, poor tune, old bolts | MLS gasket + studs; machine head; fix tune/cooling | $1200-3500 |
| Rod knock/spun bearings | Low oil, oil starvation, abuse, dirty oil | Engine rebuild/replace; inspect oil pump and pan | $3000-9000 |
| Oil leaks (valve cover/pan) | Hardened gaskets, RTV failure, PCV pressure | Reseal; replace PCV; check breather routing | $150-800 |
| Manual trans synchro grind | Worn synchros, wrong fluid, aggressive shifting | Rebuild trans; use correct fluid; inspect shift cables | $1500-3500 |
| Clutch slip/chatter | Worn disc/PP, oil contamination, bad flywheel | Clutch kit + resurface/replace flywheel; fix leaks | $900-2000 |
| AWD transfer case failure | Low fluid/leaks; recall not done; bearing wear | Verify recall; rebuild/replace case; new seals | $800-2500 |
| AWD diff whine | Worn bearings/gears from low fluid or abuse | Rebuild/replace diff; correct fluid; check mounts | $900-2500 |
| CV axle vibration/click | Torn boots, worn joints, lifted/poor angles | Replace axles; fix ride height; torque axle nuts | $250-900 |
| Wheel bearing hum | Age, impacts, incorrect torque, water intrusion | Replace hub/bearing; inspect knuckle damage | $250-700 |
| Control arm bushing wear | Age, oil contamination, cheap aftermarket arms | Replace bushings/arms; align; avoid no-name parts | $400-1400 |
| Brake caliper seizure | Rusty slide pins, torn boots, old fluid | Rebuild/replace calipers; new pins/boots; flush fluid | $250-900 |
| ABS light/wheel sensors | Broken sensor wires, rusted tone rings | Scan ABS; repair wiring; replace sensor/hub as needed | $150-800 |
| Power steering leaks/whine | Rack seal wear, old hoses, pump wear | Replace hoses/rack; flush; replace pump if noisy | $400-1600 |
| A/C weak or intermittent | Leaks, bad compressor clutch, condenser damage | Leak test; replace failed parts; vacuum/recharge | $300-1500 |
| Charging/alternator failure | Heat, oil contamination, worn brushes/bearings | Replace alternator; fix oil leaks; check grounds | $250-800 |
| Parasitic battery drain | Alarm/audio hacks, corroded grounds, stuck relays | Draw test; remove hacks; repair grounds/relays | $150-700 |
| Window regulator failure | Worn cables/guides, dry tracks, motor strain | Replace regulator; lube tracks; verify alignment | $200-600 |
| Interior water intrusion | Sunroof drains, hatch seals, cowl leaks | Clear drains; reseal; dry interior; treat corrosion | $100-800 |
| Catalyst efficiency codes | Aging cat, exhaust leaks, rich tune, bad O2 | Fix leaks/tune; replace O2/cat with quality unit | $250-1800 |
| Fuel pump/injector issues | Old pump, clogged sock, ethanol varnish, bad wiring | Test pressure; replace pump/filter; repair wiring | $250-1200 |
| Engine mounts collapse | Age, oil saturation, hard launches | Replace mounts; avoid solid mounts for street NVH | $250-900 |
Differences between JDM & USDM
The Mitsubishi Eclipse is unusual in the JDM canon because it was never primarily a JDM car. All four generations were built at the Diamond Star Motors plant in Normal, Illinois, for the North American market. A right-hand-drive Eclipse was sold in Japan starting in the second generation (1995-1999), but volumes were low — Japanese buyers faced higher road taxes because the 2G Eclipse exceeded the dimensions for the lower-tax 'small car' class. The 3G and 4G were US-market focused; JDM sales were marginal. For most JDM importers today, an 'imported' Eclipse means re-importing a US-built RHD JDM 2G — a niche path with little advantage over the plentiful LHD US-market cars. The Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser badge-engineered siblings were never sold in Japan in any form.
Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
Walk this list with the seller, not in front of them. The Critical items mean walking away if there's no paperwork backing them up. The High items can usually be priced into the deal. Most of what kills an Eclipse is rust and a skipped timing belt, so spend extra time under the car and asking for the belt receipts.
Critical Priority
- VIN/Gen/Trim Confirm generation (1G-4G) and trim vs VIN
- Rust: Strut towers Check strut towers for rot/cracks
- Rust: Subframes Inspect front/rear subframes for rot
- Accident: Frame Check rails/aprons for wrinkles/seam split
- Engine cold start Cold start; listen for knock/tick/chain rattle
- Oil pressure light Verify no flicker at hot idle after drive
- Timing belt proof 1G/2G: demand belt/water pump records
- Compression test Do compression; compare cylinders within 10%
- Exhaust smoke Blue smoke on decel/idle = turbo/seals
- Transfer case (AWD) Check for leaks; verify recall done (2G AWD)
- ECU condition 1G/2G: inspect ECU for capacitor leakage
- Aftermarket mods List mods; verify tuning for injectors/boost
- Test drive temps Watch coolant temp; no overheating in traffic
- Test drive noises Listen for rod knock, diff whine, axle click
High Priority
- Rust: Rockers Inspect rocker panels for bubbling/patches
- Rust: Rear quarters Check rear quarters/arch lips for rust
- Rust: Floor pans Lift mats; check floors for soft spots
- Accident: Core support Look for non-OE welds/overspray at core
- Windshield cowl Check cowl seal; water into cabin/ECU area
- Oil leaks Check valve cover, pan, rear main area
- Coolant condition Check overflow/radiator for oil or rust sludge
- Cooling fans Confirm both fans cycle with A/C and temp
- Radiator end tanks Look for cracks/white crust at plastic tanks
- Timing belt noise Listen for idler/tensioner chirp/whine
- Boost leaks (turbo) Pressure test intake; check couplers/IC piping
- Turbo shaft play Check in/out play; oil in compressor outlet
- Idle quality Hunt/surge idle; check IAC/TB/boost leaks
- Misfire under load WOT pull; feel breakup; check plugs/wires/coils
- Fuel trims/CEL Scan OBD; check LTFT/STFT, pending codes
- O2/Cat readiness Verify monitors set; no cat efficiency codes
- Clutch slip (MT) 3rd gear pull; watch RPM flare vs speed
- Trans synchros Fast 2-3 and 3-2 shifts; grind indicates wear
- Center diff (AWD) Listen for bind/whine; check fluid condition
- Rear diff (AWD) Check seepage; whine on cruise/decel
- Suspension bushings Inspect control arm bushings/ball joints play
- Alignment/tire wear Inside edge wear suggests bent arms/subframe
- Charging system Check voltage 13.8-14.6V; dim lights at idle
- Wiring hacks Look for splices for alarms/boost controllers
- Airbags/SRS SRS light self-test; scan for crash codes
- Interior water damage Check under carpet for damp/green corrosion
- Emissions legality Check cat/EGR readiness; visual compliance
- Test drive boost Turbo: verify stable boost; no fuel cut
Medium Priority
- Paint/Body gaps Check uneven gaps; doors/hatch alignment
- Hatch area leaks Check spare well for water/mildew smell
- Sunroof drains Pour water; confirm drains flow, no wet A-pillars
- Heater core smell Sweet smell/fogging windows indicates leak
- PCV system Check PCV valve; crankcase pressure at idle
- Motor mounts Check for torn mounts; clunk on throttle tip-in
- Clutch hydraulics Check master/slave leaks; pedal engagement
- CV axles Check boots; click on turns; vibration on accel
- Wheel bearings Hum changes with steering input at speed
- Struts/shocks Check for leaks; bounce test; uneven tire wear
- Brakes/ABS ABS light; pulsation; caliper slide pin seizure
- Steering rack leaks Check rack boots for fluid; PS pump whine
- A/C performance Vent temp; compressor cycling; condenser damage
- Battery cables Check corrosion; voltage drop on crank
- Gauges/cluster Check dead speedo/tach; flickering backlight
- Window regulators Slow/crooked windows; listen for cable grind
Low Priority
- Seatbelt retractors Belts should retract quickly; fraying check
- Door hinges Sagging doors; hinge pins/bushings wear
- Hatch struts Hatch should stay up; check for weak struts
Generation History
1G DSM (D20) (1990-1994)
- 4G63T turbo models: GS-T/GSX, TSi
- AWD GSX/TSi AWD is most desirable
- Lightweight, raw feel; huge tuning scene
- Watch for crankwalk (late 1G/early 2G lore)
- Pop-up headlights (1990-1991)
- Strong aftermarket; many cars heavily modified
2G DSM (D30) (1995-1999)
- Sleeker styling; better chassis refinement
- 4G63T continues; GSX/GS-T, TSi AWD/FWD
- 1997-1999 facelift; updated bumpers/lights
- Higher collector demand than 3G/4G
- Common: rust, hacked wiring, boost creep mods
- Originality premium rising at auctions
3G Eclipse (D50) (2000-2005)
- Shift to FWD-only; no factory turbo
- V6 GT (6G72) becomes headline powertrain
- More comfort/weight; less motorsport DNA
- Strong value as cheap sporty daily
- Auto transmissions common; manuals rarer
- Mod scene exists but collector demand modest
4G Eclipse (D60) (2006-2012)
- Modernized coupe; still FWD (some AWD in Spyder)
- V6 GT remains; improved safety/comfort
- Best as reliable cruiser vs tuner platform
- Depreciation plateauing; clean low-mile cars up
- Convertibles (Spyder) trade differently
- Not typically viewed as 'JDM icon' like DSMs
Market Data
Production Numbers & Rarity
| Generation | Years | Total Built | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1G (D20/D21A) | 1989-1994 | unknown (estimated ~350,000) | DSM totals vary; exact Eclipse split unknown |
| 2G (D30/D31A/D32A) | 1995-1999 | unknown (estimated ~300,000) | Includes coupe+Spyder; exact by trim unknown |
| 3G (D50) | 2000-2005 | unknown (estimated ~400,000) | High-volume gen; no turbo/AWD |
| 4G (DK) | 2006-2012 | unknown (estimated ~250,000) | Final gen; volumes declined post-2009 |
Rarest variant: 2G Spyder GS-T
How It Compares
Against the 90s turbo coupes, the Eclipse GSX gives you AWD that the Supra and RX-7 didn't have from the factory, and a 4G63T that responds to bolt-ons better than any naturally aspirated rival. Against the rear drive cars, the Eclipse is heavier and pushier in the corners. The table below leans toward the GSX because that's where the Eclipse actually wins.
| Feature | D32A | Nissan 300ZX Z32 TT | Toyota Supra A80 (NA/TT) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Power output | 4G63T: ~195-210 hp (US) | ~255-276 hp | ~222-280 hp |
| Drivetrain | FWD or AWD (1G/2G turbo) | RWD | AWD |
| Weight | ~2,900-3,200 lb (DSM) | ~2,800-2,900 lb | ~3,300-3,500 lb |
| Tuning headroom | High; 4G63 proven 400+ whp | High; 2JZ-GTE 500+ whp | High; RB25DET 400+ whp |
| Reliability at stock | Good if maintained; age-sensitive | Very good; simple NA | Good; watch rotary upkeep |
| Handling feel | Neutral/secure; AWD grips, FWD pushes | Sharp FWD balance | RWD finesse, lighter nose |
| Braking/track use | Upgradeable; stock brakes modest | Strong aftermarket track kits | Excellent chassis; light |
| Cabin practicality | 2+2 hatch; usable cargo | 2-seater; less cargo | 2+2 coupe; small trunk |
| Collector demand | High for clean 1G/2G turbo | Very high; iconic halo | High; drift tax |
| Ownership costs | Moderate; varies by mods | Higher; complex twin-turbo | Moderate; parts plentiful |
| Auto vs manual value | Manual premium, esp. GSX/TSi AWD | Manual premium strong | Manual premium strong |
Comparable Alternatives
If the Eclipse doesn't end up being the right car, the natural alternatives are the Subaru WRX if you want the AWD turbo recipe with easier ownership, or the Nissan 300ZX if you want a 90s turbo coupe with more presence. The Eagle Talon TSi AWD is the same Eclipse under a different badge and usually sells for less.
Subaru Impreza WRX (GD)
Turbo AWD performance; easier stock examples
Nissan 300ZX Z32
90s turbo GT rival; higher upkeep but iconic
Acura Integra GS-R DC2
90s sport coupe; reliable, strong resale
Nissan 350Z (Z33)
Modern RWD coupe; strong chassis, simpler buys
Mazda RX-7 FD3S
90s icon; lighter RWD, rotary maintenance tradeoff
In Pictures
The Buyer's Read
If you're buying an Eclipse, the safest place to start is a documented 1995 to 1999 GSX with timing belt records and crank endplay measured. That gives you the 4G63T, the AWD, and the more refined 2G chassis without paying 1G prices on a 35 year old car. Skip anything under $8,000 unless you want a project. A cheap Eclipse almost always means deferred maintenance, hacked wiring from a previous boost controller install, and a clutch that's about to need replacing. What you save on the purchase you'll spend in the first year fixing what should have been done already.
If you want the original DSM experience and you don't mind the older electronics, look at a 1G GSX from 1992 to 1994. The pop up headlights got dropped after 1991, the chassis settled down, and the 1G feels lighter and rawer than the 2G. Just know that the ECU capacitors will need to be replaced, the rust paths around the rockers and strut towers need a careful look, and finding a 1G that hasn't been modified is harder every year. The Eagle Talon TSi AWD is the same car and usually sells for less, so cross shop them.
The one Eclipse to avoid is a modified GSX with no tune logs, no dyno sheet, and no parts list. You're buying someone else's compromises. Big injectors without a proper ECU flash, a boost controller without a wideband, and a downpipe without a tune are how 4G63Ts spin bearings. The Eclipse to walk away from is the heavily modded one with a story about how it used to make 400 wheel horsepower. The Eclipse to buy is the stock one with a folder full of receipts.
The 3G and 4G are a different conversation. They're not collector cars. They're cheap 2000s coupes with a V6, and they're priced accordingly. If that's what you want, find a clean 4G GT or GT-P with the 6-speed manual and you've got an honest budget coupe. Just don't pay collector money for one.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Which Eclipse is the most collectible?
- Clean, mostly stock 1990-1999 turbo DSMs, especially GSX/TSi AWD with records and minimal rust.
- What’s the best value trim to buy?
- A well-kept GS-T/TSi FWD turbo can be cheaper than AWD but still delivers the classic 4G63T experience.
- What are the biggest inspection red flags?
- Rust, missing timing belt records, hacked wiring, boost controller spaghetti, and mismatched ECU/tune parts.
- How much does modification hurt value?
- Heavily modified cars often sell for less than build cost. Buyers pay premiums for stock, OEM, and documented setups.
- Are 2000-2005 Eclipse models good buys?
- Yes as budget coupes. They’re FWD-only and less collectible, but a clean GT V6 can be a solid daily.
- What maintenance matters most on DSMs?
- Proof of timing belt/water pump, healthy compression, no overheating, and drivetrain service on AWD (t-case/diffs).
- What’s the typical price spread today?
- Drivers are often mid-teens to 20s; top, low-mile GSX/TSi AWD can reach $40k+ depending on originality.
- Is importing a JDM Eclipse worth it?
- Often not necessary; US-market DSMs are plentiful. Import only for specific specs; ensure 25-year compliance.
Sources & References
- Mitsubishi Eclipse — encyclopedic overview — WikipediaVerified
- Diamond Star Motors — joint venture history — WikipediaVerified
- Eagle Talon — DSM sibling reference — WikipediaVerified
- Plymouth Laser — DSM sibling reference — WikipediaVerified
- Mitsubishi 4G6 engine family — 4G63/4G63T technical reference — WikipediaVerified
- DSMtuners — owner and tuning community — DSMtunersVerified
- Bring a Trailer — Mitsubishi auction archive — Bring a TrailerVerified
- NHTSA — 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse recall and complaint data — NHTSAVerified
- Mitsubishi Eclipse — original JDMBuySell editorial guide — JDM Buy SellVerified
Sources last verified: